Nick,

I've done a few wedges, and from my limited experience I think the key is getting a good bevel started. I'm in the minority on this, but I find that creating the bevel on a coarser hone is better because it allows you to use fewer strokes and concentrate on using steady, even pressure.

If I have a razor with chips or a bad bevel, I'll start out on a 600-grit DMT diamond hone. I don't consciously use pressure, although I'm not focusing on using a light touch, either. Just getting moderate, even pressure along the bevel. I also focus my attention on the 2 cm or so of the blade that's nearest the edge of the hone. (Sometimes the toe of the razor isn't even making contact for the full stroke.)

The coarser, fast-cutting hone means I don't get impatient and use too much pressure, which usually creates an uneven bevel for me. Focusing on the edge of the hone means I'm honing just a small part of the blade at one time.

I haven't had any issues with wedges since I adopted this approach, and I generally get an even bevel.

If you don't have a great bevel, you can hone forever on the finer hones without making much progress.

You might want to grab some 800 or 1000-grit sandpaper and try to reset the bevel with it, following my suggestions above.

One caution: Honemeister Randy Tuttle says that dropping below 1000-grit can cause stress on the edge that leads to microchipping later. I can't say I've seen this myself, but he's way more experienced than me.

Good luck,
Josh

P.S. Hone wear is just cosmetic, in my opinion, unless it somehow results in the razor hitting the stone at odd angles. Then it can keep the edge from honing up properly. When I say "good bevel" I mean one that goes all the way to the edge, not necessarily one that is even. Even is good, but not essential.