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Thread: Edge Picture at 100X after Chosera 1K Stone

  1. #21
    Senior Member proximus26's Avatar
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    OK,

    didn't know that this was bought from SRD. If it was, then means all should be OK. However steel is steel, There is no two identical razors blades. I had 4 DD razors, all same series, brand new. All were honed by me but two of them were always giving me problem when shaving. I have sent them to one of the SRP members to hone them. He had same experience as me. So my point is, this is nature made steel which act in many different ways. Sometimes razors are better or worst, regardless where purchased. It does not mean that they can be used. I have one old $3 French razor I bought many years ago and is my best, better than DD, Fili or others...

    Sometimes we just have to accept that perfection does not exist...

  2. #22
    illegitimum non carborundum Utopian's Avatar
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    Of course there is slight variation in steel, but I don't think it can be assessed in the OP's photos.
    tcrideshd likes this.

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  4. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Utopian View Post
    So there is your problem and the good news for you is that it is easily solved. Think of the geometry of the razor. Tape lifts the spine a little off of the hone but as the tape wears the spine lowers. When that happens the very edge of the bevel lifts off of the hone and you are only honing a part of the bevel a bit back from the edge.

    As you progress up the grits, EVEN IF you are using light pressure, you need to replace the tape to keep the spine at the same height so that the edge is contacting the hone. The tape wear and thinning reduces on the finer grits but it still happens. For that reason you must replace the tape more frequently and especially just before starting on your finishing hone.

    Polished bevels do you no good if the polish does not reach all the way to the very edge of the bevels.

    Problem solved for you!

    Happy honing and shaving!


    Utopian,

    Many thanks for taking the time to help me solve my problem!

    I am new to learning how to hone a razor and I never actually thought about whether or not it would be necessary to change the tape as I progress through the hones.

  5. #24
    illegitimum non carborundum Utopian's Avatar
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    I may have been a tad too overconfident in my assessment, but I really do believe and hope that this resolves your problem. it's not the cure for all honing issues, but it will help to keep your edge on the hone, and that's a good thing!
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  6. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Utopian View Post
    I may have been a tad too overconfident in my assessment, but I really do believe and hope that this resolves your problem. it's not the cure for all honing issues, but it will help to keep your edge on the hone, and that's a good thing!
    I think you're correct.

    Also IMO there isn't much a need to drop to a 1k unless you have some issues you need to fix like chips or bevel issues. And starting with a 1k leaves deep scratches. You'll need to do a lot of work on the 5k. Only move up once you've removed the scratch pattern and have reached the apex on both sides. Otherwise the edge will stay toothy.
    Euclid440 likes this.

  7. #26
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    Replacing the tape is critical. You'll be doing most of your work behind the apex otherwise. Personally, when using tape on a razor spine I replace it as often as necessary on the coarser stones, then again when I'm about to switch to the next stone and do 20 very light laps. On the final stone I will do exactly the same, just to be safe. It's a good idea to manage the pressure on the tape also by lightly torquing the blade so more pressure is at the apex than the spine - but don't worry about this so much if you're a beginner.
    Razorfaust likes this.

  8. #27
    illegitimum non carborundum Utopian's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 86azms3 View Post
    I think you're correct.

    Also IMO there isn't much a need to drop to a 1k unless you have some issues you need to fix like chips or bevel issues. And starting with a 1k leaves deep scratches. You'll need to do a lot of work on the 5k. Only move up once you've removed the scratch pattern and have reached the apex on both sides. Otherwise the edge will stay toothy.
    Personally, I never would consider, or recommend, going from a 1k to a 5k. I know that others do it, but I definitely prefer smaller jumps. A 1k, 2k, 4/5k progression definitely would be my preference.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Utopian View Post
    Personally, I never would consider, or recommend, going from a 1k to a 5k. I know that others do it, but I definitely prefer smaller jumps. A 1k, 2k, 4/5k progression definitely would be my preference.
    I don't think most people know that a 4k jump at a 1-5k level is not the same as a 4k jump at a higher level.

    I.e a 1k stone is around 16 microns, going to a 5k is 2.5 microns. A 6.4x magnification. A 5k to a 30k (.5 micron) stone is only a 5x magnification.


    When people make a 1-5k jump no one bats an eye. If someone where to go from a 5k to a 30k, everyone would lose their mind.

  10. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by 86azms3 View Post
    everyone would lose their mind.
    Please tell me someone else read this in the joker's voice from The Dark Knight

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