Thread: Kitchen Knives and Honing

Free hand sharpening is never a set degree anyway. It varies +/- a degree or so as it is very hard to keep all the body machanics the same with each stroke.

For a pocket knife edge I tend to go for a tough edge, so 25 would be fine but I wouln't go any lower. It is after all a personal prefference as to what you want that edge to do.

Originally Posted by DwarvenChef

Free hand sharpening is never a set degree anyway. It varies +/- a degree or so as it is very hard to keep all the body machanics the same with each stroke.

For a pocket knife edge I tend to go for a tough edge, so 25 would be fine but I wouln't go any lower. It is after all a personal prefference as to what you want that edge to do.

Very true. I think I would want a rough edge as well. It is a Swiss army knife, and is used for general purposes.

Fellas,

when you're using a honing guide like the Edge Pro, does it slide up and down the spine so you can do the X-pattern? I don't have a honing guide but am thinking of getting one. I'm picturing my 12" butcher knife on a 3" Arkansas hone; am I going to do just three-inch sections of the knife at a time?

Many guides are along the lines of the Apex now and hold the knife steady while you move the stone.
If you mean the guides that clip onto the back of the knife I don't think so I think you have to move it but you often hold the knife at an angle to the stone so larger areas would be done at a time if you wanted.
Not that you normally do more than a couple of inches at a time max freehand anyway as you press one area of the blade at a time, in general.

With kitchen sized knives on the edge pro (I don't have one, this is from others info) you will have to do the blades in sections. A 12" edge would do better if you only work on 4 to 5 inches at a time. That way the fix'd angles of the edge pro are lined up properly. If you move out to far from side to side the angles can get fuzzy on ya.

Thanks guys.