Thread: Gold Rex - can't get it honed to shave well

The only time I've used the Norton 220 was after grinding out a chip, and it was only used enough to get the bevel close to meeting, then I jumped up to the 1K to finish up. Unless you're starting out with no edge what so ever I don't recommend going below 1K. Don't be afraid to use pressure on the 1K to abrade steel and get the bevel meeting, just remember to gradually reduce your pressure until you're not using much so the stria isn't too deep when you jump up to 4K. Some pressure at bevel set and at when you start at the 4K level is fine. Just be sure it isn't enough to flex the blade.

Originally Posted by Marshal

Some pressure at bevel set and at when you start at the 4K level is fine. Just be sure it isn't enough to flex the blade.

So, that would be close to zero pressure on full hollows, right.

I test full hollows by getting in a strong light and seeing how much pressure it takes to see some flex using my thumbnail, you'll be surprised and a little scared how little it takes

Originally Posted by bluesman7

So, that would be close to zero pressure on full hollows, right.

Originally Posted by bluesman7

So, that would be close to zero pressure on full hollows, right.

Good point. Your post and Rod's made me go back and double check my collection. I thought I had a few full hollows, but it turns out the vast majority are half hollows. It takes significantly more pressure to flex those edges compared to the one full hollow I have. And now I dread taking it to the hones because it hasn't seen one since it came from ebay.

Just, ink the bevel, you will quickly see how much pressure it takes to lift the edge from the stone.

It’s not that big a deal.

Originally Posted by Euclid440

Just, ink the bevel, you will quickly see how much pressure it takes to lift the edge from the stone.

It’s not that big a deal.

Not saying it is a big deal. Just that when I read blanket statements telling people that they can and should use a lot of pressure in the early stages of honing I cringe. I've seen full hollows nearly ruined from people using too much pressure.

You are dealing with a pretty hard steel razor, harder than any German made razor.
You will have to do a bit more work on the 1k to set the bevel. You will have to do some more work on the 4k to remove the 1k scratches and then a bit more on the 8k to remove the 4k scratches. Flexing should not be an issue, those are 1/2 hollow and not very flexible, still make sure you do not overexert pressure or you will end up with scratched belly.

Under magnification I have a chippy edge. I did strokes on the 1k until I couldn't see the chips any longer, then finished with the sequence with only 10 laps on the 12k Naniwa. I can see see some very small microchips, but it is an improvement; the next shave will tell for sure.

Is there a way to prevent these chips from forming? I have only had it happen when I was first learning to hone and doing back-and-forth strokes. I have not had this problem since.

If you can see the chips, it will not shave well, or certainly, as good as it can.

The chips are from the 220 grit and deep stria it caused. If the steel is hard and or weak the damage goes deep. Even after removing the deep stria and edge chipping, the steel can be weakened and microchip later.

You will have to remove enough of the steel, to get past the problem before it will hold an edge.

Joint the edge lightly, to remove the chips on the corner of the 1k and re-set the bevel, try to use lite pressure to re-set the bevel. They are already flat and in the correct plane, so it should go quickly and not require a lot of pressure on a 1k. Try to get the edge as straight as possible, at 1k, by jointing and setting with lite pressure. It will pay you large dividends on the finish stones.

In your first experience it was not the stroke that caused your chipping, it was either too low a grit on the stone, too much pressure, bad steel or a combination of any of the three. The half lap stroke is an excellent stroke, just make sure to use pressure only on the forward stroke, and on higher grit stones, lift the razor off the stone on the return stroke so you are only doing edge leading strokes.

Pressure and how much is one of those things you just have to experience, to know how much is enough or too much.

Lately I have coached a lot of guys that are afraid to use any pressure, at bevel set and are doing hundreds of laps setting bevels. They have read the no pressure mantra and take it to the extreme.

Originally Posted by Euclid440

Joint the edge lightly, to remove the chips on the corner of the 1k and re-set the bevel, try to use lite pressure to re-set the bevel.

This simple technique (that I learned here) has provided much nicer edges and has saved me hours worth of honing.