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Thread: Honing My Hart

  1. #11
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    Ok, this spells it out that I need to be very reluctant about going back to the 1k stone, if ever. And work my way down to it, unless I know for sure the bevel needs a reset.

  2. #12
    Senior Member Wayne1963's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Utopian View Post
    I know that you meant 1k level, but a re-set of the bevels of a razor that recently had been shaving would not need to go down to that low of a grit. A 4k would be more than sufficient.
    Agreed. I think once a bevel is set, it shouldn't need a reset for years, maybe a lifetime.
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  3. #13
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    Thanks JT'.

    Better brush up on sharpness tests to help me discern when I've done what I meant to do on a given stone.

    Looks like you guys have saved me the expense of an expensive Shapton that I was contemplating. I sure appreciate not spending good money on that. I would if it was a sure fire solution, but it seems pretty clear now that it's no sure fire solution to my problem.

  4. #14
    Razorius Maximus hrfdez's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wayne1963 View Post
    Agreed. I think once a bevel is set, it shouldn't need a reset for years, maybe a lifetime.
    I did a honing session on my Imperial using the 5/8/12k progression and it came out very nice. I agree, once the bevel is set, I have learned from reading here and watching Lynn, no need to set it again, unless is extremely necessary.

  5. #15
    Senior Member kelbro's Avatar
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    The key here, I believe, is that the Hart was originally honed with tape. You need to either use tape with your edge renewal or go back to the bevel set with no tape and move your way up the progression. Right now you are polishing a 'shoulder'.
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  6. #16
    Razorius Maximus hrfdez's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kelbro View Post
    The key here, I believe, is that the Hart was originally honed with tape. You need to either use tape with your edge renewal or go back to the bevel set with no tape and move your way up the progression. Right now you are polishing a 'shoulder'.
    Well advertised on their website :-)

  7. #17
    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    Quote Originally Posted by BrentonC View Post
    Thanks JT'.

    Better brush up on sharpness tests to help me discern when I've done what I meant to do on a given stone.

    Looks like you guys have saved me the expense of an expensive Shapton that I was contemplating. I sure appreciate not spending good money on that. I would if it was a sure fire solution, but it seems pretty clear now that it's no sure fire solution to my problem.
    Along with sharpness tests at the lower grits I'd also use a loupe and learn to be able to see if your bevel is set or not. Nothing like a double check.

    A 1K Nani is what I use to set bevels on my vintage razors when I get them because they invariable have chips and rust on the bevel. Yes, I like challenges. I'd agree with the others to start at your highest grit hone to do a touch up. If that does not work drop back one and see. With a blade in decent condition bevel and edge wise you would not really need to go lower that 3K-4K.

    Just be sure that your bevel is set all along the edge no matter where you choose to start.

    Bob
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  8. #18
    Senior Member kelbro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hrfdez View Post
    Well advertised on their website :-)
    Yep. Mine was tough to reset but since I brought it back up through the progression, it's been an incredible shaving tool. Better than factory, for sure.
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  9. #19
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    Ouch, Lynn's latest (that I've seen) video on bevel setting (dated 2013) recommends 40 circles each side with 5 to 10 lbs of down force. Can that be right?

  10. #20
    illegitimum non carborundum Utopian's Avatar
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    Yes, but that is quite different from what is needed for a touch-up.

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