Thread: Honing My Hart

Originally Posted by BrentonC

Thanks JT'.

Better brush up on sharpness tests to help me discern when I've done what I meant to do on a given stone.

Looks like you guys have saved me the expense of an expensive Shapton that I was contemplating. I sure appreciate not spending good money on that. I would if it was a sure fire solution, but it seems pretty clear now that it's no sure fire solution to my problem.

Brenton, the easiest test I've come across is DrMatt's YouTube video on bevel setting. After honing on the 1k, he checks to see how easily the razor will cut a cherry tomato. Watch the video for a full explanation. This method is great because it leaves very little to interpretation.

Originally Posted by Utopian

Yes, but that is quite different from what is needed for a touch-up.

Good point.

Ok, I'd say the razor is definitely passing the thumb pad test right now, so I'll go to the 12K, work it more, understanding the Hart is harder steel than others, and see how that goes. If tomorrow's shave isn't good enough, I'll repeat, or go back to the 8K, and work my way up (12k, pasted strop, hanging strop as usual).

Wayne, I'm glad you mention DrMatt's video, because I just found it and watched it before leaving the office.

I'd thought to ask if everyone agreed with his thoughts, but I didn't want to seem to be coming from too many directions at once.

So, what does the edge look like, now?

Are you using tape?

I would be a bid dubious of the “Shaving Shop”, if they say you don’t need anything more than a 12K. What did they advise?

Before you do anything to the edge, look at it. What you do next, depends on what you see.

Originally Posted by Euclid440

So, what does the edge look like, now?

Are you using tape?

I would be a bid dubious of the “Shaving Shop”, if they say you don’t need anything more than a 12K. What did they advise?

Before you do anything to the edge, look at it. What you do next, depends on what you see.

I wish I'd looked before starting to hone on it.

With the 10X loupe, the Hart is less smooth than the Revisor that I honed using the exact same sharpening routine, minus the bevel setting, as it was already set.

With the microscope at 80X, I can see more prominent striations on the Hart, and a few chips along the edge compared to the Revisor. Plus evidence of both having been used to shave. :-/

But wasn't the Hart also originally in a shave ready condition? If so, then why did you feel the need to set the bevel on the Hart but not the Revisor?

“With the microscope at 80X, I can see more prominent striations on the Hart, and a few chips along the edge compared to the Revisor. Plus evidence of both having been used to shave.” :-/


So, your bevel is probably not set. It does not matter why you did it, it is the edge you now have and have to fix.

Just, joint the edge and reset the bevel on the 5k, remove all the 1k stria.

Here, is a good post with micrographs, that will show you what to look for in a set bevel. And what the bevels and edge should look like up the progression. It is a bit long, but it does cover a new honers progress from start to finish. Second Try at Honing.

Next time, you need a refresh just look at it first, if you see micro-chips, joint it and reset the bevel on the 12K.

It is too late for that now, and you have to deal with 1k stria and an incompletely set bevel. Then remove the 5k stria, with the 8K, and the 8K, with the 12K.

It’s not that big a deal if you take your time and remove the previous grits stria up the progression.

Skip the TI paste it is Aluminum Oxide and very aggressive, TI’s are prone to chipping, and Aluminum Oxide paste may be too aggressive for the edge.

Originally Posted by Utopian

But wasn't the Hart also originally in a shave ready condition? If so, then why did you feel the need to set the bevel on the Hart but not the Revisor?

I'd set the bevel on the Revisor years ago when I bought it.

Yes, the Hart was shave ready when I received it. Boy was it ever nice and shave ready! Mistakenly, I thought I better start from the beginning to sharpen it. On the one hand, I wish I'd tried to just polish it up on the 12K and work my way back, if necessary.

That said, I don't like to use tape on the spine to hone my razors, so had I known that this is how Hart sharpens them at the factory, then that would have sent me back to the bevel any who.

I learnt to hone using Harts and Lynn's Shapton videos.
Boy did I ruin a lot of blades (shame on me)
I found the Hart Steel to be brittle and easily removed. Pressure will eat away that steel. I've a few fat bevels to prove that.

I was guilty of overdoing it also. Less is definitely the way forward.

I have a Hart custom that I hone with nearly no pressure and I still have trouble keeping the bevel width in check.
I'd write more but I'm at work .whoops... Good luck

Not knowing your hones, I would think that 10-12 laps isn't enough especially on the 8k, I would do 20 laps and check with an eye loupe and cut a bit of arm hair which should fall very crisply, if not do 10 more laps and repeat until it passes. Use Lynn's routine as an outline and starting point and not as a "works on anything" routine, Lynn has honed many thousands of razors and his hands are very calibrated unlike ours.