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Thread: Honing My Hart
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08-30-2016, 07:52 PM #1
I don't know why the Hart isn't sharpening up for you, but I agree with the advice not to get another hone. If the progression you have (I use the same progression) isn't working, adding another hone into the mix isn't going to help. If nothing has occurred to damage the bevel, all the blade should need is a refresh. If you're resetting the bevel, that happens at the 1000k level. The only benefit to going beyond a 12k is to refine an already perfectly set bevel, which doesn't seem to be the situation here. You are perfectly set up with the stone progression that you have. I would advise working with a mentor. Good luck.
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08-30-2016, 07:56 PM #2
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08-30-2016, 08:02 PM #3
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Thanked: 3So at this point do I really need to work that 1k . . . or is it more likely the 5k to smooth out the saw blade I made of it on the 1k?
That local shop offers a honing seminar for 2 hours on a Thursday evening. It probably couldn't hurt to take that, since it's local.
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08-30-2016, 08:13 PM #4
Harts are 1/4 hollow and originally honed with tape. I also think you need to feel your way through the hones instead of counting strokes. Check with you loupe. I find my Hart does take a bit longer than a full hollow razor.
"The best way to have a good idea is to have a lot of ideas." -Linus Pauling
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08-30-2016, 08:19 PM #5
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Thanked: 3Thanks JT'.
Better brush up on sharpness tests to help me discern when I've done what I meant to do on a given stone.
Looks like you guys have saved me the expense of an expensive Shapton that I was contemplating. I sure appreciate not spending good money on that. I would if it was a sure fire solution, but it seems pretty clear now that it's no sure fire solution to my problem.
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08-30-2016, 08:30 PM #6
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Thanked: 3228Along with sharpness tests at the lower grits I'd also use a loupe and learn to be able to see if your bevel is set or not. Nothing like a double check.
A 1K Nani is what I use to set bevels on my vintage razors when I get them because they invariable have chips and rust on the bevel. Yes, I like challenges. I'd agree with the others to start at your highest grit hone to do a touch up. If that does not work drop back one and see. With a blade in decent condition bevel and edge wise you would not really need to go lower that 3K-4K.
Just be sure that your bevel is set all along the edge no matter where you choose to start.
BobLife is a terminal illness in the end
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08-30-2016, 09:38 PM #7
Brenton, the easiest test I've come across is DrMatt's YouTube video on bevel setting. After honing on the 1k, he checks to see how easily the razor will cut a cherry tomato. Watch the video for a full explanation. This method is great because it leaves very little to interpretation.
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08-30-2016, 10:07 PM #8
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Thanked: 3Wayne, I'm glad you mention DrMatt's video, because I just found it and watched it before leaving the office.
I'd thought to ask if everyone agreed with his thoughts, but I didn't want to seem to be coming from too many directions at once.
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08-30-2016, 08:17 PM #9
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08-30-2016, 08:25 PM #10