Thread: Inefficient hair removal after honing

Not going to fix-your issue but as mentioned, I was at Glen's a month or so ago with Roy, and it was told to me that it was time I try the 1k shave test, i did it when I got back, and after I finally got a true bevel set. I shaved, I think it will show you that it truly is all about the bevel.

Remember I sad after I Finally got a bevel set, case. Had a few terrible shaves from what I thought was a bevel that was correct, but when the light bulb went n. I got the bevel right, I shaved with it, then. Shaved after each stone in the progression, I really learned a bunch about pressures and when it's time to move on. Back on topic now. Tc

Originally Posted by tcrideshd

Not going to fix-your issue but as mentioned, I was at Glen's a month or so ago with Roy, and it was told to me that it was time I try the 1k shave test, i did it when I got back, and after I finally got a true bevel set. I shaved, I think it will show you that it truly is all about the bevel.

Remember I sad after I Finally got a bevel set, case. Had a few terrible shaves from what I thought was a bevel that was correct, but when the light bulb went n. I got the bevel right, I shaved with it, then. Shaved after each stone in the progression, I really learned a bunch about pressures and when it's time to move on. Back on topic now. Tc

When you shaved after each stone in the progression - how exactly did you do this? Did you just shave a tiny bit after each stone?

I,m an everyday shaver so I just shaved the next day after going to the next stone, I actually shaved twice on the 8k day and hit the 12k and shaved that night,, I get a pretty good beard by the end of the day And it has to be smooth or it will burn, But that's how I did it. Tc

So, to hone a smiling razor, there are 2 easy methods.

Use a Heel forward, Rolling X stroke, where you vary the pressure by lightly torqueing the edge, onto the stone and slightly lifting the heel, as you travel down and across the stone, especially when bevel setting. Ink will help here, visualizing where you are making contact on the bevel.

Or you can hone the razor, in 3 parts, straight hone the toe, middle and heel separately, then blend the 3 facets with an X stroke.

Either way you can vary the pressure, to even up the bevel width to a degree.

The smile on your razor, is not that pronounced, but you will have to do some gymnastics and modify pressure, to get the heel and toe honed. Because of the multiple bevels, ink will help you see where you are making contact and honing to the edge.

The Chosera will easily cut a new bevel. This is a repair, not your garden variety honing at this point.

In this case, even though you are setting a bevel, it is more repair work, where you will be using more pressure, than usual, to cut a new bevel. Once you cut a new, single, flat bevel, you will probably have a chippy edge, joint the edge and reset the whole edge with light pressure.

A lot will depend on the condition of the razor.

You could do that I would think, once the bevel is set after the 1k I can usually finish honing in 10 mins or less. So test the 1k, in my case 3 mins on the 4k and test, 3 mins on the 8k and test, 3 mins on the finisher and test. If I'm honing for others I just test on my toughest spots, if it passes there it will pass the rest of my face.

Originally Posted by benhunt

When you shaved after each stone in the progression - how exactly did you do this? Did you just shave a tiny bit after each stone?

Originally Posted by Euclid440

So, to hone a smiling razor, there are 2 easy methods.

Use a Heel forward, Rolling X stroke, where you vary the pressure by lightly torqueing the edge, onto the stone and slightly lifting the heel, as you travel down and across the stone, especially when bevel setting. Ink will help here, visualizing where you are making contact on the bevel.

Or you can hone the razor, in 3 parts, straight hone the toe, middle and heel separately, then blend the 3 facets with an X stroke.

Either way you can vary the pressure, to even up the bevel width to a degree.

The smile on your razor, is not that pronounced, but you will have to do some gymnastics and modify pressure, to get the heel and toe honed. Because of the multiple bevels, ink will help you see where you are making contact and honing to the edge.

The Chosera will easily cut a new bevel. This is a repair, not your garden variety honing at this point.

In this case, even though you are setting a bevel, it is more repair work, where you will be using more pressure, than usual, to cut a new bevel. Once you cut a new, single, flat bevel, you will probably have a chippy edge, joint the edge and reset the whole edge with light pressure.

A lot will depend on the condition of the razor.

Cheers - that's all very clear and helpful. The only bit I'm still a bit vague on is joining the edge. Is there a video of someone doing this somewhere?

Here is a good post, that is basically on jointing and honing to an already straight edge. Hone a Straight Edge or to a Straight Edge?

The thread does get a bit side tracked about the interpretation of Iwasaki’s method, but there is still a lot of good discussion.

In that thread on post 33 there is a link to Alex Gilmore’s video of honing a razor. At about 6.25, Alex joints the razor using his interpretation of the Iwasaki method.

I believe in some of Glenn’s videos, he also demonstrates the technique as I describe below.

I typically just very lightly draw the razor from heel to toe across the upper vertical corner of the stone one time. It removes any false edge and straightens the edge. The bevels will no longer be meeting, but will come back to meeting in 6-10 light laps.

Alex says the technique is similar to killing an edge on a glass, but I feel a stone cuts a fresh edge, where a glass rolls the edge and it eventually breaks off.

Make sure to watch part 2, post 35, of Alex’s method.

BTW, Alex has many great videos of honing and his AX Method at his site, the Japan Stone.

Originally Posted by Euclid440

The thread does get a bit side tracked about the interpretation of Iwasaki’s method, but there is still a lot of good discussion.

In that thread on post 33 there is a link to Alex Gilmore’s video of honing a razor. At about 6.25, Alex joints the razor using his interpretation of the Iwasaki method.

I side-tracked that thread because I saw no point in allowing the continued propagation of what I consider to be a completely wrong interpretation. I will continue to maintain that this interpretation cannot be correct, for the same two reasons.

1. Iwasaki described this as the last step of honing. He did not say it was to prepare for the final step. He said that it was the final step. I do not believe that jointing the edge is the last honing step.

2. Iwasaki stated that this final honing step was to be done for 10-15 minutes. I do not believe that jointing the edge should, by any stretch of the imagination, be done for 10-15 minutes.

Alex's video stated that after a single back and forth stroke, the edge was dulled. It is obvious that this stroke should not be the last honing step and should not be done for 10 minutes, so it also is obvious that this is not what Iwasaki was describing.

“I side-tracked that thread because I saw no point in allowing the continued propagation of what I consider to be a completely wrong interpretation.”

Wow, you really are full of yourself, that was over a year and a half, ago…

I did not know you could channel Iwasaki. I suppose, that jewel was based on your translation of the original, Japanese?

Dude, you really need to eat more fiber… or something.

More importantly, your post, has nothing to do with the OP’s question.

Again, you are not being helpful, but, you certainly are living up to your reputation.

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