Thread: Sharpening a sharp razor

Originally Posted by BobH

After disinfecting it first, I'd be inclined to give it a good stopping on linen and leather and see how it does or does not shave first. If it does not shave to your liking then go to the stones and see where the Nani 12K and a layer of tape get you. Still no joy shaving, then drop back to the 8K and so on.

Bob

Very Good Advice Bob!

When Owen had loaned me the folding Japanese made straight razor that he'd found during the battle for Iwo Jima to have pictures taken I couldn't resist seeing if after over 60 years it would shave.

I stropped it 50 laps on cloth and 200 on leather.

After all those years it gave a decent shave. It was so tempting to see how it would shave with just a few laps on a 12K to refresh the edge but I restrained myself and returned the razor with only the stropping.

I don't wish to hijack this thread, if you are interested in more of the story about the Japanese razor see here:
Straight Razor Place - The Saga of a Japanese Straight Razor's Long Journey Home From the Battle Field of Iwo Jima

It may seem counter intuitive but starting on 1k could save you time... If time is a consideration.

Because you're asking this question, I would recommend working backwards starting with canvas and leather. You could go straight to 3k or 1k, but I think there's more to be learned starting up high in this situation. If all looks good under the loupe, it probably won't take a whole lot. A touch up on a Nani 12k takes less then a minute. If you need to go lower after that you really haven't wasted much time. I don't mind removing steel when needed, but I don't like to waste it.

I always start with bevel set on any new razor I have. I want to put my edge on them and to get the results I like I have to start from the beginning.

Originally Posted by mainaman

I always start with bevel set on any new razor I have. I want to put my edge on them and to get the results I like I have to start from the beginning.

Exactly

I have said it in the past and continue with the same rule

"The bevel ain't set until you set it yourself"

Sorta like all guns are considered loaded until you check it yourself


That bevel set might take a minute, I am by no means advocating wasting steel but I want the planes of the bevel to be mine, so that I am positive they are even and solid

Originally Posted by mainaman

I always start with bevel set on any new razor I have. I want to put my edge on them and to get the results I like I have to start from the beginning.

Normally that is what I do mostly because the razors I get almost always need an edge restore rather than just a bevel reset. I have had 1 new razor and a couple vintage NOS razors that shaved with just a stropping. OTH those improved a bit with either stopping on a hanging crox coated felt strop or a couple of swipes on a 12K Nani. If the edge looks good to me under a loupe I'll try strop and shave first just for the exercise of seeing if I can recognize a decent edge not set by me.

Bob

If in any doubt, 1 layer of tape and start from the 1k for me, your not going to remove a huge amount of steel anyway if it's in good nick. I find it learn more about a razor when I start from a bevel set.

For me its really all about conforming the razor to my usual maintenance practices. I start from scratch so I know the next time I go back to any one of my razors I know what to do to it. I don't want to ask myself the question was this a factory hone job or was it maintained with pastes or 2-3 layers of tape what have you. I rather not have to scratch my head and sit there with a loupe too much. If I receive a razor that's used I am going to probably buff it a little bit and clean and shine it up then it goes to the hones. It is just what I like to do. Every old razor I buy is an opportunity to hone a razor, soup to nuts, as I mentioned once before I don't get to do that very often anymore because I am just maintaining my collection and it requires very little honing to do so.

Looks to be fairly hollow ground.

One layer of tape, run the side of a sharpie on the edge from heel to toe with just the weight of the sharpie. It will lightly cut into the sharpie felt. You will feel any chips and ink both sides of the bevel and edge at the same time.

Do 4-5 light laps on the 12k and look at it, what you see will tell you where to go next.

Worst case, you go to the 1k and you wasted 2 minutes of your life. Either way be careful with full hollows, too much pressure will lift the edge off the stone.

If the edge and bevel are in good shape, you do not need a 1k bevel set, often dropping to a 4k is plenty. But it may just need a touch up.

Nice find, by the way…