Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 23
Like Tree87Likes

Thread: Sharpening a sharp razor

  1. #11
    Senior Member BeJay's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Communist State of California
    Posts
    1,461
    Thanked: 463

    Default

    Because you're asking this question, I would recommend working backwards starting with canvas and leather. You could go straight to 3k or 1k, but I think there's more to be learned starting up high in this situation. If all looks good under the loupe, it probably won't take a whole lot. A touch up on a Nani 12k takes less then a minute. If you need to go lower after that you really haven't wasted much time. I don't mind removing steel when needed, but I don't like to waste it.
    BobH, Whizbang and Tomdraug like this.
    B.J.

  2. #12
    I used Nakayamas for my house mainaman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Des Moines
    Posts
    8,664
    Thanked: 2591
    Blog Entries
    1

    Default

    I always start with bevel set on any new razor I have. I want to put my edge on them and to get the results I like I have to start from the beginning.
    Stefan

  3. #13
    At this point in time... gssixgun's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    North Idaho Redoubt
    Posts
    26,960
    Thanked: 13226
    Blog Entries
    1

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by mainaman View Post
    I always start with bevel set on any new razor I have. I want to put my edge on them and to get the results I like I have to start from the beginning.
    Exactly

    I have said it in the past and continue with the same rule

    "The bevel ain't set until you set it yourself"

    Sorta like all guns are considered loaded until you check it yourself


    That bevel set might take a minute, I am by no means advocating wasting steel but I want the planes of the bevel to be mine, so that I am positive they are even and solid

  4. #14
    Senior Member blabbermouth
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    17,251
    Thanked: 3222

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by mainaman View Post
    I always start with bevel set on any new razor I have. I want to put my edge on them and to get the results I like I have to start from the beginning.
    Normally that is what I do mostly because the razors I get almost always need an edge restore rather than just a bevel reset. I have had 1 new razor and a couple vintage NOS razors that shaved with just a stropping. OTH those improved a bit with either stopping on a hanging crox coated felt strop or a couple of swipes on a 12K Nani. If the edge looks good to me under a loupe I'll try strop and shave first just for the exercise of seeing if I can recognize a decent edge not set by me.

    Bob
    Life is a terminal illness in the end

  5. #15
    Senior Member blabbermouth markbignosekelly's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Egham, a little town just outside London.
    Posts
    3,733
    Thanked: 1074
    Blog Entries
    2

    Default

    If in any doubt, 1 layer of tape and start from the 1k for me, your not going to remove a huge amount of steel anyway if it's in good nick. I find it learn more about a razor when I start from a bevel set.
    Razorfaust and Whizbang like this.

  6. #16
    Senior Member Razorfaust's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    Bergen County, N.J.
    Posts
    1,265
    Thanked: 225

    Default

    For me its really all about conforming the razor to my usual maintenance practices. I start from scratch so I know the next time I go back to any one of my razors I know what to do to it. I don't want to ask myself the question was this a factory hone job or was it maintained with pastes or 2-3 layers of tape what have you. I rather not have to scratch my head and sit there with a loupe too much. If I receive a razor that's used I am going to probably buff it a little bit and clean and shine it up then it goes to the hones. It is just what I like to do. Every old razor I buy is an opportunity to hone a razor, soup to nuts, as I mentioned once before I don't get to do that very often anymore because I am just maintaining my collection and it requires very little honing to do so.
    Last edited by Razorfaust; 10-14-2016 at 04:00 PM.
    Whizbang likes this.
    Don't drink and shave!

  7. The Following User Says Thank You to Razorfaust For This Useful Post:

    Whizbang (10-15-2016)

  8. #17
    Senior Member blabbermouth
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Diamond Bar, CA
    Posts
    6,553
    Thanked: 3215

    Default

    Looks to be fairly hollow ground.

    One layer of tape, run the side of a sharpie on the edge from heel to toe with just the weight of the sharpie. It will lightly cut into the sharpie felt. You will feel any chips and ink both sides of the bevel and edge at the same time.

    Do 4-5 light laps on the 12k and look at it, what you see will tell you where to go next.

    Worst case, you go to the 1k and you wasted 2 minutes of your life. Either way be careful with full hollows, too much pressure will lift the edge off the stone.

    If the edge and bevel are in good shape, you do not need a 1k bevel set, often dropping to a 4k is plenty. But it may just need a touch up.

    Nice find, by the way…
    BeJay likes this.

  9. #18
    Senior Member Whizbang's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    I'm thinking...
    Posts
    447
    Thanked: 79

    Default

    Thank you all for the advice. I decided to play it safe and reset the bevel so I would know exactly what it took to sharpen this razor. I taped the spine and started with the 1k, 3/8k and 12k Naniwa stones. Then stropped with newspaper and leather. It passed the HHT all along the edge. So...it is honed, stropped and ready for my shave tomorrow morning. I will post a review in the SOTD.
    BobH, BeJay and Razorfaust like this.

  10. #19
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    East Central Illinois
    Posts
    782
    Thanked: 101

    Default

    Why tape?? The only way I would tape is if bevel had been set with tape and if that is the case I would reset it the correct way with no tape! Why mess with the angle the razor was made with. I tried tape for about a week and I realised it was a silly thing to do.



    Slawman

  11. #20
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Virginia
    Posts
    1,516
    Thanked: 237

    Default

    Oh man, not another tape/no tape argument........

Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •