Thread: Sharpening a sharp razor

After disinfecting it first, I'd be inclined to give it a good stopping on linen and leather and see how it does or does not shave first. If it does not shave to your liking then go to the stones and see where the Nani 12K and a layer of tape get you. Still no joy shaving, then drop back to the 8K and so on.

Bob

I always start from the top and work my way down.

I prefer to start on the 1k and go up. I prefer to be sure rather than go back and forth between hones and my face. But neither way is right/wrong.

If its an antique/used razor I almost always start over regardless of the blade condition. A few times I was in a rush and just ran one on a pasted strop to try it out but I was just being inpatient. Of course you don't have to maybe a touch up on a high grit stone may be sufficient but for me I just re hone it from bevel up so I don't have to wonder.

If there is no micro chipping and looks really clean and still cuts hair I would probably at least give the 12k a try and see what happens, if still a no go drop back to the 3k and work back up.

Originally Posted by BobH

After disinfecting it first, I'd be inclined to give it a good stopping on linen and leather and see how it does or does not shave first. If it does not shave to your liking then go to the stones and see where the Nani 12K and a layer of tape get you. Still no joy shaving, then drop back to the 8K and so on.

Bob

Very Good Advice Bob!

When Owen had loaned me the folding Japanese made straight razor that he'd found during the battle for Iwo Jima to have pictures taken I couldn't resist seeing if after over 60 years it would shave.

I stropped it 50 laps on cloth and 200 on leather.

After all those years it gave a decent shave. It was so tempting to see how it would shave with just a few laps on a 12K to refresh the edge but I restrained myself and returned the razor with only the stropping.

I don't wish to hijack this thread, if you are interested in more of the story about the Japanese razor see here:
Straight Razor Place - The Saga of a Japanese Straight Razor's Long Journey Home From the Battle Field of Iwo Jima

It may seem counter intuitive but starting on 1k could save you time... If time is a consideration.

Because you're asking this question, I would recommend working backwards starting with canvas and leather. You could go straight to 3k or 1k, but I think there's more to be learned starting up high in this situation. If all looks good under the loupe, it probably won't take a whole lot. A touch up on a Nani 12k takes less then a minute. If you need to go lower after that you really haven't wasted much time. I don't mind removing steel when needed, but I don't like to waste it.

I always start with bevel set on any new razor I have. I want to put my edge on them and to get the results I like I have to start from the beginning.

Originally Posted by mainaman

I always start with bevel set on any new razor I have. I want to put my edge on them and to get the results I like I have to start from the beginning.

Exactly

I have said it in the past and continue with the same rule

"The bevel ain't set until you set it yourself"

Sorta like all guns are considered loaded until you check it yourself


That bevel set might take a minute, I am by no means advocating wasting steel but I want the planes of the bevel to be mine, so that I am positive they are even and solid