Thread: Bevel setting?

Originally Posted by JOB15

I went to Hell and back learning to set bevels on 1k glass stone. They do gunk up quickly....

Thankfully years later I have a Chosera 1k. That stone should win awards..

I firstly do the thumb pad test.
Then I go to the inner fore arm to shave test but I don't have to cut the hair.
I just feel the edge grip my skin and know that it is set.
Why waste valuable hair

Another great method. Taught to me by Max.
Lick your thumb (yummy) then place your wet thumb on the razors edge .
Try to slide your thumb forward . If it grips, then that part of the edge is set.
If it slides then it isn't set.
Ps don't cut yourself trying this :/

I will be receiving my Chosera 1k this Friday...It didn't dawn on me that when a stone gunks up that means it pretty much stops removing metal until you re lap it over and over again! I will try all the bevel test again when I have a properly set one lol.

Originally Posted by BeJay

The Chosera 1k is a great bevel setter. I started off using a 1k SS and it drove me crazy. It needed constant lapping or it wouldn't cut. My noob reaction was frustration and too much pressure. Bevels were much less daunting with the Chosera.

What was the condition of the blade before you started working on it? What kind of a grind is it ? Some blades just take a lot of work to get a good bevel.

I've also got to agree with gssixgun about trying all of the bevel test. Most guys will figure out a "go to" test that works every time FOR THEM. I personally use a few test, but the TNT has the final say. Keep trying them all throughout the process and they will start to make sense. You will see how each test looks/feels before the bevel is set, and see how each changes as the bevel comes in.

Where is the "middle of CA"? I'm located in the east bay. Maybe I could give you some hands on help.

Yeah! I live in the east bay too. I would really appreciate that!

Just one point on stones 'gunking' up, or blocking pores in the stone to prevent it cutting properly. I do believe that happens, but, to re lap completely, maybe unnecessary. As a general practice I do with every stone right up to the Suehiro 20k. I do six figure 8's with an Atoma 400 lapping plate. I have always felt that the surface of a hone functions better if it is 'disrupted'. What I'm getting at is if you have 6 razors that all need bevel work, then in between razors I'd do 6 figure 8's to clean the surface.
Bob

Originally Posted by bobski

Just one point on stones 'gunking' up, or blocking pores in the stone to prevent it cutting properly. I do believe that happens, but, to re lap completely, maybe unnecessary. As a general practice I do with every stone right up to the Suehiro 20k. I do six figure 8's with an Atoma 400 lapping plate. I have always felt that the surface of a hone functions better if it is 'disrupted'. What I'm getting at is if you have 6 razors that all need bevel work, then in between razors I'd do 6 figure 8's to clean the surface.
Bob

I think that's what most of us are talking about. About 10 seconds on a diamond plate to give you a fresh surface. If you do your initial grid lapping when you get the stone this will maintain its flatness indefinitely.

PS. Super Stones will swell when they are wet. Always wet them for 5-10 minutes before lapping.

Originally Posted by BeJay

I think that's what most of us are talking about. About 10 seconds on a diamond plate to give you a fresh surface. If you do your initial grid lapping when you get the stone this will maintain its flatness indefinitely.

PS. Super Stones will swell when they are wet. Always wet them for 5-10 minutes before lapping.

A stiff brass brush, like the one in the DMT maintenance kit, will clean up most stones without lapping.

This is a great thread. My only immediate problem is, I seem to have lost my loupe. Murphy says that I will find it as soon as I give up any hope and purchase a new one. I am hoping Murphy is wrong and I will find it quickly. So far all loupe hunting expeditions have been unsuccesful.

I do only refresh the stone to free up new grit, not re lap sorry about the using the wrong term, lapping a stone and re refreshing a stone are two different things I now don't believe the SG 1k or the NSS 1k are just 'gunking' up, I think in 'theory' the grit itself is smoothing out or laying down like man made crop circles. No matter what I have done to clean the surface either with some kind of scrubber or Scotch brite pad etc. the stone wont cut anymore refresh the surface! So glad and thankful these pro honers are willing to shed light on the subject!!!

A small Arkansas stone that you can buy usually for less then $5 at any knife place or garage sale works great to "Re-fresh between razors or to raise a light slurry on most all of these softer Waterstones

Just remember the smaller the stone you use the faster the hone will get out of flat..

That is exactly why I recommended using a few figure 8's with a Diamond Plate before each razor on so many vids
It keeps the Hone flat raises a light slurry if you like, and exposes the cutting surface of the hone

I got that Chosera 1k woooooo!