Thread: Bevel setting?

Just one point on stones 'gunking' up, or blocking pores in the stone to prevent it cutting properly. I do believe that happens, but, to re lap completely, maybe unnecessary. As a general practice I do with every stone right up to the Suehiro 20k. I do six figure 8's with an Atoma 400 lapping plate. I have always felt that the surface of a hone functions better if it is 'disrupted'. What I'm getting at is if you have 6 razors that all need bevel work, then in between razors I'd do 6 figure 8's to clean the surface.
Bob

Originally Posted by bobski

Just one point on stones 'gunking' up, or blocking pores in the stone to prevent it cutting properly. I do believe that happens, but, to re lap completely, maybe unnecessary. As a general practice I do with every stone right up to the Suehiro 20k. I do six figure 8's with an Atoma 400 lapping plate. I have always felt that the surface of a hone functions better if it is 'disrupted'. What I'm getting at is if you have 6 razors that all need bevel work, then in between razors I'd do 6 figure 8's to clean the surface.
Bob

I think that's what most of us are talking about. About 10 seconds on a diamond plate to give you a fresh surface. If you do your initial grid lapping when you get the stone this will maintain its flatness indefinitely.

PS. Super Stones will swell when they are wet. Always wet them for 5-10 minutes before lapping.

Originally Posted by BeJay

I think that's what most of us are talking about. About 10 seconds on a diamond plate to give you a fresh surface. If you do your initial grid lapping when you get the stone this will maintain its flatness indefinitely.

PS. Super Stones will swell when they are wet. Always wet them for 5-10 minutes before lapping.

A stiff brass brush, like the one in the DMT maintenance kit, will clean up most stones without lapping.

This is a great thread. My only immediate problem is, I seem to have lost my loupe. Murphy says that I will find it as soon as I give up any hope and purchase a new one. I am hoping Murphy is wrong and I will find it quickly. So far all loupe hunting expeditions have been unsuccesful.

I do only refresh the stone to free up new grit, not re lap sorry about the using the wrong term, lapping a stone and re refreshing a stone are two different things I now don't believe the SG 1k or the NSS 1k are just 'gunking' up, I think in 'theory' the grit itself is smoothing out or laying down like man made crop circles. No matter what I have done to clean the surface either with some kind of scrubber or Scotch brite pad etc. the stone wont cut anymore refresh the surface! So glad and thankful these pro honers are willing to shed light on the subject!!!

A small Arkansas stone that you can buy usually for less then $5 at any knife place or garage sale works great to "Re-fresh between razors or to raise a light slurry on most all of these softer Waterstones

Just remember the smaller the stone you use the faster the hone will get out of flat..

That is exactly why I recommended using a few figure 8's with a Diamond Plate before each razor on so many vids
It keeps the Hone flat raises a light slurry if you like, and exposes the cutting surface of the hone

I got that Chosera 1k woooooo!