Thread: Honing advice

The one on the end isn't in play at all. I've rounded out more than any of those chips when I rounded off the sides.

No problems.

Does the stone look as if it has been lapped? It was supposed to have been.

I drew a grid and lapped the norton with a flattening stone. THe lines were gone in a matter of a couple minutes. Should I file those chips with sandpaper or should I just keep using the flattening stone? I am guessing that a file on my leatherman would not be an option.

I can't see any chips on the surface in the first photo, although I can see the edge chips on the second.

The chip on the short end I wouldn't worry about; you shouldn't be taking the blade close to that. The ones on the edge need to be fixed; if it was my hone, I'd take some sandpaper to the edge to put a gentle bevel on them (they look as if they haven't been bevelled), which would take those chips right out.

I used the flattening stone on the hone the edges seem better. I will try and post pics. If someone has a lapped norton they would post that would be great. I soaked the stone for about ten minutes then soaked the flattening stone for about 5 minutes. I am not sure if this was adequate enough or not. To bevel the edges would I use the flattening stone at an angle? or flat to the surface of the sides of the stone? I tested the surface by laying the stone on the counter. I had some decent suction but it really was not that hard to remove the stone. I am waiting on some sandpaper but until then I think I am ready to try honing my 5.8 wapieinca and try to get the microchip out.

That should be long enough for soaking - you can tell if the flattening stone wasn't soaked for long enough, as it clogs with waste almost immediately, and puts a very smooth surface on the hone.

You can use it at 45 degrees to bevel the edges - just one or two strokes per edge is plenty.

I wouldn't worry too much about suction on your counter; if the surface is porous or anything short of dead flat, the suction will be weak. I put two hones together, and they stick very strongly (even if one of them is in bad need of flattening).

I tried taking a wapieinca with a chip and I did what you all think I did I made the blade worse. I tried circles and strokes but this tiny tiny chip won't come out. Also I am noticing on my first stroke that the blade seems to be catching and jumping on the 4000 grit side. Only on the stroke moving from left to right. I only mention this because I have to use pressure to keep the blade flat and think It may be messing up the edge. I lapped the stone tonight again and I worked the edges so I do not think that is the problem. I don't know if this is a chip or what. Right in the middle of the blade it looks like a curve in the edge to another curve in the edge. TNT catches my nail so I am assuming it is a chip. I must have done 10 sets of circles and no success. I followed lynns DVD and did 20 counterclockwise with the blade facing away and 20 clockwise blade facing me. I then did 5 on the 4 followed by 6 on the 8. THen 3/3 1/3 1/5/ a couple times.

Another newb question... the razor fits on the hone. Do I still need to make an x stroke or can I simply move the blade across the hone? The pyramid above is the only pyramid I am familiar with.

I know my honing must be to blame here but what kind of interpretation should I be expecting from the hone? What does it feel like to make a normal stroke? I have another TI with a microchip and was toying around with the idea of taking it to the hone but I don't want to ruin another edge.

I soaked the stone for 30 minutes and then lapped it. I then went to work on the wap. I believe I am noticing some flattening of the spine. If any of you had this situation what would you do?

Matt

Depending on the size of the chip it could take a while on the 4k and that's why you're not seeing immediate results. I've always handled chips by taping the spine (to prevent wear) and using 1K grit wet/dry... it really speeds up the process as you move to the 4k norton. I don't suggest buying another stone unless you plan on honing out a lot of chips going forward. I recently purchased a 1k grit DMT from Howard to replace the sandpaper, but with the right technique they should produce similar results.

Just to add to the consensus...

It takes ages to work out a chip. I have an ebay with a proper chip on it, one that was easily visible to the naked eye when I started. After about 200 strokes on the 4k, the chip is now barely visible without magnification, but still catches on my thumb nail.

You should tape the spine if you are going to work on a chip, if you care about spine wear.

X strokes are good, even if you have a 3" hone. My theory is that the cross motion compensates for any minor unevenness in the hone. It also allows for smiling blades.

It is entirely normal for your chip removal to appear to blunt the blade; you are working on the bevel, and any polishing you may have made on the finer hones will be removed. Improving the bevel is good, and pays off in the long run, even though you will have to go through the pyramid system to establish the edge.

Originally Posted by Gravitas

Matt

Depending on the size of the chip it could take a while on the 4k and that's why you're not seeing immediate results. I've always handled chips by taping the spine (to prevent wear) and using 1K grit wet/dry... it really speeds up the process as you move to the 4k norton. I don't suggest buying another stone unless you plan on honing out a lot of chips going forward. I recently purchased a 1k grit DMT from Howard to replace the sandpaper, but with the right technique they should produce similar results.

What kind of technique should I be using on the wet dry? And also, is it normal to encounter some resistance on the 4000 side of a norton?