Results 21 to 24 of 24
Thread: Honing advice
-
06-20-2007, 02:42 AM #21
The technique I use is to place the 1k wet/dry on a piece of glass or comparable machined flat surface. Then use a circular honing motion on both sides of the blade, like Lynn showed on the 4k in his video. I then move to the norton and do about 30-40 passes on the 4k side, followed by a normal pyramid progression.
On your second question, resistance on the 4k should be minimal...make sure you're using no additional pressure other than the weight of the blade.
Hope this helps
JR
-
06-21-2007, 08:51 AM #22
Thanks for all of the advice thus far. I have been a little nervous about taking another razor to the hone as I am not sure what the results may be. In the meantime though I managed to create another problem for myself. This is probably a quick fix but I thought I would bring it up. I left a wet Norton hone on the tablecloth without thinking for a good 35 minutes before moving it to a solid surface. A little red color managed to bleed through to the stone.There is ONly a little on the surface of the hone and some on the sides. Should I lap the stone until the color is removed, Or is there a better way to clean it?
-
06-22-2007, 08:48 AM #23
-
06-22-2007, 10:09 AM #24
I can see why the machined glass would be a little more practical. IT was hard to get the sandpaper to stay still on the counter top and I ended up holding the razor at a steep angle to grind out the chip. I know this is not the right way but I thought hell, if I screw up the edge or blade it is a wapienica and I might just learn something while I do it. I believe the chip or chips are close to gone and that I can finish up the job on the norton. I also now believe I am seeing an uneven bevel. It appears that the bevel on one side is less than the bevel on the other. What should my next plan of attack be here? An aggressive pyramid? I alrady did about 40 laps on the 4k side as well as a few circles.