Thread: Honewear on omote side of kamisori causing increased resistance.

I doubt the sticktion will go away with any means. You are grinding a very smooth surface with large surface area (the razor) against another very smooth surface (the stone) with water between. The capillary action will tend to keep the two stuck to each other making even uniform strokes hard to consistently achieve.

Are you feeling the razor slip and then get "stuck" as you hone, like as if the hone was uneven?

As you can see the honewear on the shoulder is most pronounced toward the heel and the honewear on the cutting edge most towards the toe end of the blade.
The bevel marking test stripes tell you were the cutting edge needed some work. I did put a little pressure on the heel end of the blade when honing.
Unfortunately kamisori blades are made with two different steel types. The shoulder being made of the softer steel. So the shoulder will wear more quickly.
The Oozuku is really flat, I take the blade up and down the hone in a straight line. No circles, X-patterns etc.
Occasionally I get the slip and stick phenomenon.

It gives great shaves now so I am reluctant to do anything about the shape and geometry of the blade, I am gonna enjoy it as it is. Next time I do some work on the edge of a kamisori I will do a 1:1 ratio instead of 1:7 until the edge is sharp along its entire length. Only in the end will I revert to 1:7.

The most important aspect of honing a Kamisori is the "Pressure Shift" it is obvious from the wear that you are applying pressure on the whole razor and NOT just the edge..
You cannot "Torque" a Kamisori as you would a Western razor so you have to use your Fingers and Thumbs to shift pressure, this will avoid the results you got..

If you watch this vid I explain it and demonstrate it

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dNCVe3Alye8

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iRIQ3_6Cs5o

This is a newer vid on correcting a problem Kamisori you might find some ideas in there

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m87oGTAKV7I

Ratios are dependent on the steel and your technique, Personally I use a variable ratio almost all the time now, as I find it works on the most razors, you can always adjust that to your razor after you get it dialed..


Re-grinds on a Kamisori are tricky, but the idea of using a Dremel makes me cringe..
Depending on the steel and even whether it was actually made with two types,, an actual Belt Grinder or perhaps a Sen would be the way to approach it if you are going to attempt it

If I were in your shoes in the EU I would touch base with Jenes and show him a pic and see if he thinks he can pull the one back to straight and clean


Hope that helps

Who is Jenes?

Originally Posted by Kees

Who is Jenes?

Jenes Sandor he makes custom razors

http://straightrazorpalace.com/members/jeness.html

You might also touch base with Bruno I don't know if he does Re-grinds but he has the equipment and the skills just not sure about the time

No need to over complicate single bevel honing with math or ratios. Wood workers who hone their chisels will understand this easily.
Honing on the back (Ura) is simply to remove any small burr created from honing the front (omote)
If a restoration, then the Ura needs to be clean & established from the start, this is called Ura oshi but this step is mostly unecessary for kamisori.
And so, the only stone to touch the ura in normal honing should be the final stone.


FYI. Stone files are also a great way to restore Jp knives & razors & establishing Ura Oshi.. Pic below.