Thread: Tape on the spine

Originally Posted by Southbound

But when the spine gets thinner, so does the edge.
Yes. But the bevel gets broader. (The height of the bevel)

Ah no, again in theory the bevel should not get broader. You need a certain width spine for a certain size blade to get a 17 degree bevel. As the spine narrows and the blade size shrinks the bevel should remain the same width. That is the theory but in practice all bets are off especially if the spine wears faster, thins, than the blade size reduces.

A good example is a near wedge with heavy hone wear and it shows a wide bevel. You likely need to add multiple layers of tape to compensate for the heavy hone wear and your new bevel should be thinner than the original.

Bob

On a hollow ground razor with a lot of hone wear the bevel will get too wide without tape and become very chippy/crumbly and probably not give good shaves at all if you can even get it sharp. I just use one layer of tape (2 on a wedge) on everything now just for my own consistency. You can't put metal back on the spine if you get to aggressive when you first start honing.

I come back after a 2 year hiatus from the forum - glad to see things haven't changed a bit!

I would add that most if not all custom razor makers hone with tape - there is just no reason not to, other than preference - if you're "wearing" through tape you're using too much pressure.

-john

Originally Posted by BobH

Ah no, again in theory the bevel should not get broader. You need a certain width spine for a certain size blade to get a 17 degree bevel. As the spine narrows and the blade size shrinks the bevel should remain the same width. That is the theory but in practice all bets are off especially if the spine wears faster, thins, than the blade size reduces.

A good example is a near wedge with heavy hone wear and it shows a wide bevel. You likely need to add multiple layers of tape to compensate for the heavy hone wear and your new bevel should be thinner than the original.

Bob

Sorry, but that is not correct.

As "the blade size shrinks," the edge will migrate closer to the spine. The thickness of the blade increases as you get closer to the spine. This is true for a wedge, a half or quarter hollow, or a full hollow. As the edge migrates into the thicker part of the blade, the bevels will be wider.

Originally Posted by Utopian

Sorry, but that is not correct.

As "the blade size shrinks," the edge will migrate closer to the spine. The thickness of the blade increases as you get closer to the spine. This is true for a wedge, a half or quarter hollow, or a full hollow. As the edge migrates into the thicker part of the blade, the bevels will be wider.

OK, but not hugely wider then?

Bob

Originally Posted by BobH

OK, but not hugely wider then?

Bob

OK, I'll give you that.

It won't get hugely wider until it gets fartherer up the widerer part of the blade, at which point it will be hugely wider. It depends completely on the thickness of the blade.

Originally Posted by BobH

OK, but not hugely wider then?

Bob

Y U G E!! Y U G E L Y WIDE and it'll be GREATl!!!!

Originally Posted by Phrank

Y U G E!! Y U G E L Y WIDE and it'll be GREATl!!!!

Nope. No. No.

Get a vernier gauge, measure the thickness at thespine across three or four points, and then measure the height from the spine wear strip to the cutting edge and calculate. If the bevel could stand to have the edge reeled on and the spine kept as is, use tape, if the spine is already creating an obtuse bevel don't use tape for now... If Inhave to remove big chips on wedges or grind through pits to hit a bevel I usually calculate, see where I am and then go without for a time before defaulting back to one layer. I wouldn't personally go over two layers as tape is compressible. Onlu exception I make are for 18th century stubtails where the spine tends to be really thin.

Originally Posted by Phrank

Y U G E!! Y U G E L Y WIDE and it'll be GREATl!!!!

Where have I heard that before.

Bob