Thread: Stone +/- Paste + Leather / Mirror Edges

Originally Posted by JOB15

The only true mirrored edges I've seen are from using the nano sprays..

And the ludicrous fact is that the "true mirror" is lost with the first stropping and shave, making it entirely pointless.

I have been trying not to use any pastes or crox after the stones, with the intent of wanting to feel the edge from the stone, not the paste or spray. But since leather is the last thing to "polish" the edge, does it make a difference then what type of finishing stone you use or if you use paste?

An 8k or 12k used as a finishing stone can benefit from pastes. Finer stones, eg 20k or some naturals, will not, if used correctly.

Just need the right magnification & all bevels will show scratches

Poor resolution and contrast also are great for eliminating scratches.

Scratch-less finish is obtainable with J-Nats .
Pure mirror polish could be doable with J-Nats followed by some nanocloth work.
I finish a lot on 20k Suehiro, and there are always small scratches but the edges are impeccable, I have been told many times by others.

Cosmetically the scratches could be an issue, but in practice are irrelevant. If there is some issue with confort of the shave then the problem is honing and higher polish will not solve the problem.

Originally Posted by Phrank

I have been trying not to use any pastes or crox after the stones, with the intent of wanting to feel the edge from the stone, not the paste or spray. But since leather is the last thing to "polish" the edge, does it make a difference then what type of finishing stone you use or if you use paste?

A question I have pondered myself. Some things to think about is -With a well finished edge it is near impossible to tell what stone it is finished on. Can you tell what leather it was stropped on? A diamond paste on balsa CAN leave a harsh edge but FeOx on felt or CrOx on felt is very nice and smooth and can people tell the difference between that and an edge finished on a coticule? Some say they can but I really wonder about a blind fold test. Lastly, you would be very surprised at how many people use paste without anyone knowing.

Originally Posted by prodigy

The key is learning what scratch patterns your stones make, then you'll know when you've hit their limit. After a bevel set, try 1 lap and inspect, 5, 10, 20.... eventually it will not make any changes, and you'll know you've hit the limit on that stone.

Wouldn't this be for only 1 particular blade, as every blade is different in metal make-up (content of: Fe, C, Mn, etc.)? 20 laps, on a given stone, on a blade with .95% C will react differently than, say, one with .5% C.

I'm not a metallurgist (nor do I play one on TV). I'm just trying to work my way through the thought process.

Originally Posted by AcesandEights

Wouldn't this be for only 1 particular blade, as every blade is different in metal make-up (content of: Fe, C, Mn, etc.)? 20 laps, on a given stone, on a blade with .95% C will react differently than, say, one with .5% C.

I'm not a metallurgist (nor do I play one on TV). I'm just trying to work my way through the thought process.

There will be some variation but if the stone is consistent, a big part of the equation, then one can get a good feel for how things are going based on visuals.
The 20k Suahiro is one of the most consistent stones I have seen. Consistent and super fine J-Nats exist, but they come with the price tag or with good dose of luck ona cheap piece.

Originally Posted by AcesandEights

Wouldn't this be for only 1 particular blade, as every blade is different in metal make-up (content of: Fe, C, Mn, etc.)? 20 laps, on a given stone, on a blade with .95% C will react differently than, say, one with .5% C.

I'm not a metallurgist (nor do I play one on TV). I'm just trying to work my way through the thought process.

There's always going be unknown variables and cases that don't fall perfectly into place. The idea is you learn what your stone is doing. Once you have that down, you may be able to see slight differences between different steels.

It's always hard to learn a new stone. Then when you think you know it, something will surprise you, and a whole new world of testing and tinkering comes about. Start slow, use as few, but quality, stones as you can. Learning to hone and HAD in combination is a recipe for disaster.

My razors are often finished on 200K diamond pasted strop followed by 50-60 laps on a clean leather hanging strop. Close to mirror and will cut your eyeball just looking at them.

'Nearly mirror' or 'damn close to mirror' comes after a few shaves and linen and leather sessions.

I might could get them there with more linen and leather after the honing but the shaves are great and that's what I'm after. The 'mirrored edge' is more of a by-product than a goal.

I brought a Thiers Issard from Steve Dempster at the Invisible Edge, the bevel was absolutely mirrored, perfect infact, you could probably see a gnats cock in it it was that good. After a couple of shaves and stropping sessions i could see tiny striations, done my head in, did it shave any different? Absolutely not.