Thread: How do you "fine tune" your razor's edge between shave tests?

I am interested in hearing about the various methods that people use to “fine tune” an edge in between shave tests after the razor has been initially; and I am also interested in learning how you choose which method to use on a particular razor. To sharpen my razors I usually use Lynn’s pyramid method on the Norton followed by 10-20 passes on a yellow coticule (with or without slurry), and sometimes follow this with 10-20 passes on the chromium oxide. This usually gets the razor very close, but if the razor is shaving but not to what I think is its potential (it is not shaving close or comfortably) I have used all of the following methods (with varying degrees of success) to try to improve the edge:

- Another 1-3 1-5 progression on the Norton followed by the yellow coticule
- 3-5 more passes on the 8K side of the Norton followed by the yellow coticule
- Another 10 passes on the yellow coticule (sometimes with and sometimes without slurry)
- Blue Belgian with sluryy followed by the yellow coticule with slurry
- 10 passes on the . 5 microm diamond or chromium oxide paste
- 10 passes on the 1 micron diamond followed by 10 passes on the .5 micron diamond or chromium oxide

The main reason that I am asking this question is to find out how you decide which method to use. For example I remember Lynn telling me that if a razor is shaving close but not gliding comfortably he will just use paste like chromium oxide as opposed to going back to the Norton. If the razor is not shaving close then the edge probably would need to go back to the Norton for some 1-3, 1-5 progressions. He also said that if he is honing a razor made of very strong steel (like stainless) it could be a good idea to just try another 3-5 passes on the 8K (followed by the coticule) if the razor is not shaving well. In talking to Randy, I learned that after the initial honing he will not go back to the 4K unless the razor fails 3 shave tests with touch ups with the 8K, coticule, then chromium oxide.

How do you guys “fine tune” your razors. What methods do you use and how do you decide which one to go with. Is there a method to the madness or do you just go with your gut feeling as to what you think your razor needs?

Once I get an edge established, I like to work with just the coticule until it's shaving perfectly. If it's not quite there, I'll do anywhere from 10 to 30 strokes on the coticule, sometimes using water, and lately with a dry surface. I'll do that a couple of times if necessary. If that doesn't do it, I'll go back to my blue Belgian for some more work on the bevel.

For me personally, pastes create a very sharp edge that just doesn't hold up to the beating my beard inflicts, so I have to rehone after just a few shaves. The coticule smooths the edge out so it shaves very well but also holds up to extended punishment.

I'm also learning what a huge difference stropping can make. My latigo/horsehide combo strop from Tony works wonders when it comes to smoothing the edge. I've been giving my freshly honed edges some extra stropping, alternating between the latigo and horsehided every few dozen laps. Great stuff.

One last point: In my experience, using the coticule with slurry actually dulls the edge a bit. The slurry is great for taking out small nicks, but it seems to be too aggressive when you're trying to push the fin to max sharpness. Using the coticule dry, wet or with lather works better.

Just my two cents.

Josh

I like to use the TPT & HHT to help determine what should be done next.
If I feel the razor is not keen enough I will do some finishing grit work.
If I believe it's overhoned I'll go back to a small pyramid with some more work on the 4k waterstone.

X

I'm similar to X, at least in the initial stages - HHT and TPT off the 8k side of the Norton. It sounds funny, but sometimes I can sort of "feel" the edge sharpness when it's on the hone as well...

Anyway, if it needs a final touch up after that I use a pasted hanging strop (Dovo red paste). I like that as you can really fine tune any areas of the edge that aren't quite there. Then I strop the bejeebers out of it. Usually it's ready to go after that.

James.

I keep honing on the 8K until it shaves perfectly. I see no reason to go to pastes or get creative when an important step is not right. I would never go to a paste if 8K isn't working right. If I wanted to get more sharp then 8K, I'd go to my 12K and then to my .5 and then to my linen impregnated with fire ash. But I don't do any of this stuff and just stop at 8K mostly because it works.

I do the same thing to every razor until its done. That is probably a more simplistic and ineffecient method, but it has worked on every razor I own. Luckily, I have no aspirations of going "pro".

HeavyDuty,
Thanks for the thread!
Gentlemen, Thanks for the info. This is exactly what I am struggling with at the moment as a noobie. Good stuff.

Originally Posted by AFDavis11

I keep honing on the 8K until it shaves perfectly. I see no reason to go to pastes or get creative when an important step is not right. I would never go to a paste if 8K isn't working right. If I wanted to get more sharp then 8K, I'd go to my 12K and then to my .5 and then to my linen impregnated with fire ash. But I don't do any of this stuff and just stop at 8K mostly because it works.

I do the same thing to every razor until its done. That is probably a more simplistic and ineffecient method, but it has worked on every razor I own. Luckily, I have no aspirations of going "pro".

So once you are confident that you have a good bevel, you just polish it until the razor shaves the way you want it to?

I can't speak for Alan, but that's a good way to describe how I approach things.

Josh

Perhaps the best thing I have learned is the importance of having the hones flat and the surface refreshed before every honing session. A dished honed or a hone with a glazed surface really reduces the effectiveness.


In my case I will turn on the water in the kitchen sink and rub the 4K-8K-12K with a norton 1K. This works very well. The Coticule/Escher/Tam O'Shanter/slate based hones used with a slurry are an exception. The slurry keeps the surface glaze free. But they do need lapping once in a while.

Just my two cents,

Originally Posted by AFDavis11

I keep honing on the 8K until it shaves perfectly. I see no reason to go to pastes or get creative when an important step is not right. I would never go to a paste if 8K isn't working right. If I wanted to get more sharp then 8K, I'd go to my 12K and then to my .5 and then to my linen impregnated with fire ash. But I don't do any of this stuff and just stop at 8K mostly because it works.

I do the same thing to every razor until its done. That is probably a more simplistic and ineffecient method, but it has worked on every razor I own. Luckily, I have no aspirations of going "pro".

I do the same thing as Alan. Since learning how to really use the 8k norton, I've not needed to use diamond paste or chromium oxide. I get very pleasing shaves directly from the 8k. That's me, I don't knock others who will use the pastes and chrom ox at all.

Seems to me that a person needs to gather information, try different techniques and settle on what works best for that person. We all have different approaches to reach the same goal.