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Thread: Can't set bevel on dovo 5/8 best quality

  1. #11
    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    There are members in Oz that should be able to hone that for you. I would not carry on honing it yourself but send it out to preserve it being a usable razor.

    Bob
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  2. #12
    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    What I'm seeing is the toe honed much more than the heel. At that point I'd be coloring the edge side with sharpie and using a pair of calipers to scribe a new edge line so I could butter-knife it until it's parallel with the spine. The heel and toe would likely need a little reshaping after.

    It can be saved. But this looks to be a tick beyond regular honing from what I'm seeing in the pics. It might be better to set on the back burner until you've got a bit more time on the stones.
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  4. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marshal View Post
    What I'm seeing is the toe honed much more than the heel. At that point I'd be coloring the edge side with sharpie and using a pair of calipers to scribe a new edge line so I could butter-knife it until it's parallel with the spine. The heel and toe would likely need a little reshaping after.

    It can be saved. But this looks to be a tick beyond regular honing from what I'm seeing in the pics. It might be better to set on the back burner until you've got a bit more time on the stones.
    Did I use to much pressure? I used Lynn's method with circles. Is there a better way for beginners to hone?


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  5. #14
    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    Too much pressure toward the toe, yes. I wouldn't say there's anything wrong with Lynn's method. The man's probably fixed more razors by accident with that method than I have on purpose.

    It's just a typical beginner's error, focusing too much on one side without really thinking about where along the edge pressure was being applied. Some folks hone out the heel and end up with a hook back there, some end up with a frown, you wound up with a skinny toe. This isn't the worst I've seen.

    I think it's perhaps easier to focus on a standard X stroke with the blade canted about 45 degrees. Heel leading if you will. That way pressure naturally transfers along the edge as you move through the stroke. Like Gssixgun does here:



    It's a tape vs no tape video, but it gives a pretty good top down view of the type of stroke I'm talking about.

  6. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marshal View Post
    Too much pressure toward the toe, yes. I wouldn't say there's anything wrong with Lynn's method. The man's probably fixed more razors by accident with that method than I have on purpose.

    It's just a typical beginner's error, focusing too much on one side without really thinking about where along the edge pressure was being applied. Some folks hone out the heel and end up with a hook back there, some end up with a frown, you wound up with a skinny toe. This isn't the worst I've seen.

    I think it's perhaps easier to focus on a standard X stroke with the blade canted about 45 degrees. Heel leading if you will. That way pressure naturally transfers along the edge as you move through the stroke. Like Gssixgun does here:



    It's a tape vs no tape video, but it gives a pretty good top down view of the type of stroke I'm talking about.
    Cheers for the video. His are more of a swooping stroke or should I stick to standard x-strokes?

    Thanks again for the information


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  7. #16
    Senior Member blabbermouth nicknbleeding's Avatar
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    Looks like too much pressure and the toe looks smaller than the heel. It can still be honed so dont feel it cant be. There are a few guys who are in your area that can hone. Either ask them to hone it or if they are close maybe show you.

  8. #17
    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    If* you re-shape the blade to it's proper contour, I would say use the exact stroke Gssixgun suggested in the video. There's a reason he does it that way. As the blade moves through the stroke pressure will naturally shift from the heel to the toe, resulting in a relatively even amount of attention from heel to toe. The blade may end up with a slight smile, and that is not bad - at least in my book. But all of my straight edged blades have retained their parallel track to the spine thus far in spite of using a similar stroke. You can of course focus the pressure on specific parts if needed, but that shouldn't be necessary. I'd just focus on the follow through. Keep the blade flat, little bit of torque toward the edge, walk it through the stroke and eventually the edges will come together.

    If you don't reshape it someone more knowledgeable would have to offer pointers. I haven't really honed a lot of misshapen edges. My approach is to bring them back to form first.
    Last edited by Marshal; 08-10-2017 at 04:43 AM.
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    Senior Member blabbermouth outback's Avatar
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    They've been known to have stabilizer issues.
    I have one, that was doing the same thing, till I addressed the stabilizers.
    She's as good as new... Uh...better than new.

    The stabilizers weren't ground out enough, so it kept the heal off the stones.
    They stood above the tang and spine, and you could feel a click, while honing in a X stroke fashion.
    Mike

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  11. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Utopian View Post
    If you're in the US, I'll hone it for you for the price of return postage.

    If you want to keep honing it yourself, please start taping the spine. You are putting way too much wear into the spine. It also looks like you've got the makings of a frown given the width of the bevel in the middle, relative to the ends, of the front side of the blade.

    Where are you located? Maybe we can find you some local help for one on one assistance.
    (I guess I pretty much paraphrased what TC already said.)
    Thanks, I got a hold of someone in Australia that I'll get to fix it. Can I ask, if you have a new dovo out of the box, would you just use the 8k and 12k lightly to get it right?


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  12. #20
    illegitimum non carborundum Utopian's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marshal View Post
    What I'm seeing is the toe honed much more than the heel. At that point I'd be coloring the edge side with sharpie and using a pair of calipers to scribe a new edge line so I could butter-knife it until it's parallel with the spine. The heel and toe would likely need a little reshaping after.

    It can be saved. But this looks to be a tick beyond regular honing from what I'm seeing in the pics. It might be better to set on the back burner until you've got a bit more time on the stones.
    You mentioned the excessive toe wear on the back of the blade but did not mention there was not comparable wear on the front side. On that side, the excessive wear is in the middle.

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