Thread: Bevel issues

I thought it was strange that on an eBay find Torrey that I was having a strange issue with setting the bevel. It set straight and even on one side but not even on the other side. It does have hone wear, same case with the hone wear. I’m confused as to how the sides are so different. Normally if there is a warp or uneven hone wear the side will be opposite of each other, correct? I used 2 layers of tape to make up for the hone wear. Changed tape from one stone to the next. It does shave but just ok doesn’t go bbs but pops arm hairs with ease. I know someone with more experience than my 10 months might have encountered this before, is there a way to correct this or is the razor a lost cause? Thanks for looking any advice is appreciated.

It is possible the blade wear may have something to do with it. The blade is more narrow at the toe than the heel, that makes me think the metal is thicker at the toe.
It could also be the original grind that's giving you fits. Just my 2 cents.

Uneven wear is a very common thing, a razor isn't ground perfectly symmetrically and inevitably honing will also create a slight unevenness in wear

That said, I use a permanent marker pen and color in the edge of the razor over the entire length, then do a couple of strokes on a stone and see which parts are making good contact thereby you can determine if your points of concern are troublesome or purely cosmetic.

Most of the time, IME I've noticed the heel to be lacking a bit and needing (a few) more strokes, but it should get rid of the marker eventually. Although some heels are a PITA to get 'em to make proper contact. (I don't always chase a perfect heel anymore on some razors) but in your case it LOOKS like it would do fine

If the entire edge gets good contact with a hone, I wouldn't worry much and go through a regular progression if not, report back

If it pops arm hair with ease, I will assume your bevel is set correctly.
(I like to shave arm / leg hair testing either side of the razor to be sure)
One thing that comes to mind is that maybe the finish of the razor isn't there yet, sometimes certain spots on the edge lack a bit behind other parts and need more time on certain hones, ergo why we cant recommend the number of strokes one must do.
(this does not only apply to a finisher, but over the entire progression)
You do as many as you feel you need to do

One more thing that comes to mind is finding those slightly little angle adjustments between different razors while shaving

If things get really tricky, we might need to measure the spine width to edge angle ratio etc

As you suggest, possible warpage or geometry issues. Maybe a past honer was also a bit heavy-handed in one stroke direction and also put too much pressure on the spine. In any case, were that my razor I would go back and make double sure that I am maxed out on my bevel setter. Assuming that's a synthetic water stone, adjust your stroke as necessary to ensure that you are pushing, and then undercutting "the wave" all the way across on both sides. Maybe some light work on your midrange 4K or whatever you use in the middle. I will also often strop after every stone with a blade that is giving me trouble like that to "seal the deal" at every level. I employ a number of tricks like that when honing a problem blade that can make all the difference.

Every time I have a trouble blade it comes down to two things. The angle of the bevel is one and the quality of the bevel set is the other. Looking almost straight down on the bevel with a loupe is my best gauge. Any flat spots, bright spot or white lines are a no go. The bevel angle can be figure out with a table, but I have just guessed at it. If in doubt try adding another layer of tape, then try sera ring a layer of tape. Sometimes I put on three layers of tape and then try to wear the tape flat then add another layer to get flat hone contact. First guess would be add tape and second guess would be a bevel issue. Look at the bevel first and check to see if the apex is perfect. Then play with the layers of tape.

Originally Posted by ScoutHikerDad

I will also often strop after every stone with a blade that is giving me trouble like that to "seal the deal" at every level. I employ a number of tricks like that when honing a problem blade that can make all the difference.

I have never heard of or tried this trick. What would the reasoning be?

I forgot to mention a warped blade, color in the edge, if the heel and toe get sharpened, you'll see the middle will not and vice versa.

They require some honing gymnastics / a narrow hone / or use the outer parts of you hones to hone on

Originally Posted by MisterClean

It could also be the original grind that's giving you fits. Just my 2 cents.

^This......

Something else that I noticed on this blade, the spine has been worn flat. This might be contributing to your problems.

I typically resort to a rolling X stroke, for trouble blades.