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    Member GoTeeGuy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by xman
    Because the pressure exerted on the blade's contact with the hone is different near the shank where you are holding it that out at the tip where you are not. Many guys will experience a shaving sharp heel and a tip which won't cut a thing.

    X
    That may explain why honing in an 'X' pattern does not produce an uneven blade. If the pressure on the heal is greater than that on the point, then the heal may simply not require as much honing, while the point still benefits from the extra 'travel' along the hone.

    - Ken -

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    There is no charge for Awesomeness Jimbo's Avatar
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    Sorry everyone - I need to remember to choose my words more carefully

    Xman nailed it when he said it's a pressure transfer along the edge. It's really a tiny, tiny adjustment in edge pressure focus, that's all. I'd suspect it happens naturally as part of an X pattern anyway, in a lot of cases.

    Anyway, sorry for the confusion

    James.
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    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    Quote Originally Posted by GoTeeGuy View Post
    That may explain why honing in an 'X' pattern does not produce an uneven blade. If the pressure on the heal is greater than that on the point, then the heal may simply not require as much honing, while the point still benefits from the extra 'travel' along the hone.

    - Ken -
    Maybe this explains why barber hones were made the size that we find them.

    Considering that the point should not go below the mid point on the hone, the heel and point actually travel about the same distance on the hone when using the standard 2" wide barber hone and the classic X pattern. And the usual length of a straight razor blade is about 3". If you are using a wider (maybe not straight razor specific) hone, or using a straight across honing technique, this may not apply.

    During performance of the X pattern, as the point of the razor is starting to contact the hone, the heel is exiting the bottom edge of the hone. Only if you continue to draw the point past the middle of the hone (longest, or horizontal, axis) will it get more contact time (so, dont - ) .

    The real trick in honing is learning to keep equal pressure and flat contact all along the edge on both sides. The test for this is the thumb nail. If you find that sharpness is uneven along the edge (sharp heel, duller point, etc.), then you weren't applying equal pressure and/or keeping the razor flat the entire stroke.

    Thoughts??

    Scott
    Last edited by honedright; 07-26-2007 at 07:12 PM.

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    Senior Member superfly's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by honedright View Post
    Maybe this explains why barber hones were made the size that we find them.
    Thoughts??

    Scott
    Exactly my thought...

    Nenad

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    Senior Member str8_razr's Avatar
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    For those of you who employ the "rolling hone/variable pressure" method, do you typically use one hand, or two?

    Andrew

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    There is no charge for Awesomeness Jimbo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by honedright View Post
    ...

    The real trick in honing is learning to keep equal pressure and flat contact all along the edge on both sides. The test for this is the thumb nail. If you find that sharpness is uneven along the edge (sharp heel, duller point, etc.), then you weren't applying equal pressure and/or keeping the razor flat the entire stroke.

    Thoughts??

    Scott
    Well, I'm with you on the equal pressure idea, defnitely. But I'm wondering whether flat contact is the only way to achieve even pressure.

    I've got no experience with the really narrow hones - is there no weight-tranference (even subtley) at the shank as the middle-to-toe area of the edge comes in contact with the hone?

    James.
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    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jimbo View Post
    Well, I'm with you on the equal pressure idea, defnitely. But I'm wondering whether flat contact is the only way to achieve even pressure.

    I've got no experience with the really narrow hones - is there no weight-tranference (even subtley) at the shank as the middle-to-toe area of the edge comes in contact with the hone?

    James.
    Probably there is. There are leverage changes too...and that is the challenge to, and the skill of honing, to overcome and manually correct those tendencies. Subtle though they may be.

    Those who are exceptionally dexterous (think - neuro surgeons, watch makers, etc.) will probably become better at honing than those who are maybe less gifted, but I think anyone who puts the time and effort into it can become proficient at the skill.


    Scott

    PS - One thing I think that helps is what I mentioned before about not letting the point travel past the mid point on the hone. The more blade that remains in contact with the hone, the more stable it will be and easier to control. Still a challenge though....

    Oh, and one other thing - if the straight across method on a wide hone is the most stable, and possibly easier method, does it produce a better edge (parallel striations)? Do the the diagonal striations created by the X pattern provide the better cutting edge? And if you perform the X pattern on a wider hone, then are you more likely to get more contact time on the point as opposed to the heel? ???

    Oh yes, and why the thumb nail? Because the thumb nail lays over, and is attached to, one of the most exquisitely sensitive goups of sensory nerve endings in the body. A razor blade can be moved over the nail without pain nor risk of injury allowing you to feel the condition of the honed (not stropped) edge with great accuracy. Oh yeah, go ahead and check it with your face instead....(please don't).
    Last edited by honedright; 07-26-2007 at 07:53 PM.

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    Default 3 inch hone and X pattern

    I'm really new to all this, but have bought myself the 3 inch Norton 4k/8k in order to avoid having to master the X pattern, as I figured that it wouldn't be necessary on this wider hone.

    Is that right? Can I just go up and down the hone keeping my razor in the middle?

    My SRP razor from Classic Shaving was fabulously honed by Lynn initially, but I think it now needs another go. What's the betting I manage to undo all his hard work?!

    I'm planning to use a 3/3 1/3 1/5 pyramid, stop and check. Does that sound good?

    Thanks

    Nick

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    Senior Member superfly's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Manowar View Post
    I'm really new to all this, but have bought myself the 3 inch Norton 4k/8k in order to avoid having to master the X pattern, as I figured that it wouldn't be necessary on this wider hone.

    Is that right? Can I just go up and down the hone keeping my razor in the middle?

    My SRP razor from Classic Shaving was fabulously honed by Lynn initially, but I think it now needs another go. What's the betting I manage to undo all his hard work?!

    I'm planning to use a 3/3 1/3 1/5 pyramid, stop and check. Does that sound good?

    Thanks

    Nick
    Check this thread for my view on the X pattern:
    http://straightrazorpalace.com/showt...ight=pyramides

    cheers,
    Nenad

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