Thread: Amount of water on Hones

Watching a few vids and I noticed that some folks like to finish with as little water as possible on the stone. I'm not understanding what difference this would make. I normally have a nice amount of water on the stone at all times, so why is it important to clean the water off and work on just a damp stone in the end? I'm talking about synthetic stones BTW.

I like a lot of water when I'm honing I spray regularly, the water is the added lubrication more water to me means a smoother edge smoother action overall.

^^^^^^^^^ I'm with Jamie on this one. I hone next to the sink and use a small spray bottle of water to ensure the honing surface stays wet. Sometimes water pushes off the sides of the hone, so I'm regularly spraying.

Wave and undercutting effects are important indicators to me as I progress up to the finisher. And, even at the finisher when things are golden, I see no benefit to be had by drying the hone at this point.

I use plenty water during the bevel setting and sharpening stages and watch to see whether the blade is undercutting the water, which tells me I'm on the right track.

But when finishing on the 8k and higher grits I would start with a wet stone and then keep going until the hone is dry. The direct steel to stone contact with no water to suspend the abraded particles seems to produce a glazing action on the stone, reducing the stone's abrasiveness and improving it's ability to polish the blade.

I use a lot of water as well.

I actually use progressively more water as I go to ensure there is as little grit as possible on my final strokes before moving on to my next stone.

This is pretty generalized and I di like to change things up and experiment from time to time. Mostly I use a fairly wet hone. If I’m finishing on my Norton 8K for example, I do let it go to damp. Some finishers I will sometimes go with damp and end with a few back strokeaka spine leading. Bevel setter is always a lot of water. Finishers that varies a little.

Every hone (synthetic and natural) is different. Two extremes are the Imperia La Roccia that becomes quite sticky as you near completion; if I am using that one, I finish under a stream of running water. The Zulu Grey is entirely different in that it is possible to use that one dry. I have a Vermio that seems to finish best using shave cream as a lubricant. Liquid hand soap, glycerine, Smith honing solution, and oil are other possible lubricants. You just have to experiment to find out which lubricant works best with each hone. I try to stay away from oil, however, as once you use oil, it is difficult to remove it from a stone and try something else.

Very few stones I will go to dry (damp) and only on the final finishing process

Nakayama, after the slurry is all broken down, and smooth as silk comes to mind.

I used to use that trick back in 2007 when all I had was a Norton 4/8 and wanted to get the ABSOLUTE most out of that hone.

It is just another Tool in the box of tricks to mess with to see if you can get "more" sometimes it works, try it and decide if it works for you.
But you better have a smooth LIGHT even stroke

Great replys guys. Thanks.
Ive always thought a good amount of water was best. Now i dont flood the stone with water when im at the point of finishing with that stone, whatever stage in the honing im at. I feel too much water (big puddle) will look like the blade is undercutting when its plowing thru and some happens to go on top of the blade. But ive never tried to go with just damp in the end. I might give it a try sometime to see what difference it makes.

BTW Glen, ive seen your vids and you seem to do this. This is what made me wonder why. You never explained in your vids why you were doing it. Im now at the point in my honning that im wanting to try and learn all. If i ever could.