Thread: slurry mash up?

very little experience with slurry honing
but interested in trying it out
....thinking out loud....
anyone have any experience with mixing slurry stone/slurry/nagura...... with non native hone?
like nagura slurry on escher, or coticule slurry on a ark......
in my limited research it looks like the slurry is responsible for a lot of the edge's final characteristics

Good News = There is magic in the mud

Bad News = There are no rules set in Stone (Pun intended)

Slurry is all about adventure and experimentation, some works, some doesn't and some is "Magic"

I always recommend starting with the finisher and slurry raised from the finisher itself that gives you an idea for a 0:0 base point

Originally Posted by gssixgun

Good News = .............

I always recommend starting with the finisher and slurry raised from the finisher itself that gives you an idea for a 0:0 base point

I'm trying to postpone the inevitable slip.... fall..... tumble....... crash into another rabbit hole

i'm trying to learn and master what i have first, arks (ish), and lapping film

plus was thinking the lesser $$$ commitment of just a slurry stone to satisfy the curiosity

When used, slurry can be made in various ways. With synthetic and natural hones, slurry is often produced by abrading the top surface of the hone using diamond plate or piece of stone that is harder than the primary hone. Such a stone is called a nagura. In this instance, the slurry contains mostly particles from the base hone.

Slurry can also be produced by using a nagura that is similar to the primary hone. This is called a tomo nagura with tomo signifying "same". In this case, the slurry contains particles both from the base stone and the nagura.

The third way is to use a very hard base stone and use a set of naguras that are softer than the base hone and vary in grit level. In this instances most of the particles in the slurry come from the nagura stones rather than the base hone. This system allows a single base hone to be used to accomplish all honing tasks from setting bevels to final polishing of the edge depending upon the nagura being used.

Another variable has to do with the characteristics of the abrasive particles in the slurry. Some particles are friable. That means that as you hone on the slurry, the pressure of the blade moving through the slurry breaks the slurry down into finer particles. In that instance, a single slurry can be used for a variety of honing tasks. Other slurries contain particles that are highly resistant to breakdown.

thanks

i'm pretty sure i understand the slurry theory

i like the idea of a single stone, variable nagura

i'm thinking along the lines of theory 3 and 4...

how do i identify slurry stone friability, grit level, hardness?

each different slurry stone will have its own nuances/personality with regards to finished hone

? what are the characteristics of:

naguras, coticules, thuringians, eschers, any others?

It happens all the time actually. If you look at Japanese style honing, each Nagura is a different type of stone than the base hone, except the final tomo nagura, which is the same stone type.

A lot of my hones are on the soft side, where I would be hesitant to use a different type of slurry stone. Ideally the slurry stone will be softer than the base, so the slurry is primarily from the rubbing stone and not the base hone. But on harder stones like my PHIG and Arkansas stones I've used a wide variety of stone to build up slurry. Soft synthetics like Norton or Naniwa stones can make for an interesting slurry to play with. I've also got a couple of different coticule rubbing stones, Welsh slates, and a nagura stone to play with. It can work rather well to form a one hone system.

that's what i am thinking, a fancy slurry stone on my ark-ish...

any experience with thuri slurry stone?

wow the japanese stamped nagura are pricey $$$ !

Yes. I don't like it! I use my thuri water only like a synth. No slurry. jnat slurry? Sure. I typically do a 1k to mid-range and then dump that slurry on my finisher. Sometimes that's all it takes. Sometimes I need a little more from the diamond plate or Tomo. I used to play alot with naguras. Didn't find they were worth the time as I didn't get anything out of them. But that's for every one to decide.

Problem with naturals is they are all different, add to that condition of the razor, finish on the bevel and ability of the honer, you can see limitless variables await you. Whole categories of stones cannot be quantified and results predicted.

Arks alone, can vary and stone face finish can dramatically alter results.

You can alter a finish with slurry, but first learn to max out the stones you have, then you will know if you are going forward or backwards with slurry.

There is much written on mixing natural stone slurry and pastes, as expected, results vary. Film is probably the most predictable, but even then, the razor and honer play the largest part. Few razors can handle the finish that the smallest Nano grit films can produce, but there is middle ground. It is for the honer to find that sweet spot for that razor, with your beard and skin type.

Start experimenting with Ark stone face prep then add known grit paste, Chrome, Ferrous and Cerium oxides. Then add naturals stones. It is all a rabbit hole, but you will learn a lot about honing and developing your skills. Inexpensive high magnification will help you cut the learning curve.

I tried a lot of different slurries on a few different stones. It was fun to experiment and a good way to move from lower grits up the polishing scale. I never got the keen-ness that I wanted from slurry. It did create very nice looking edges. They shaved OK but for me, they were nice and smooth and sharp like a coticule edge. They just weren't quite 'there' for me.

Ultimately, I would end up with the finish of the base stone.

Reminds me that I have a really nice complete nagura set that I need to list on buy-sell...