Thread: Can I set a bevel with a 4K Norton?

Ok, everybody, please forgive me if this is an oft-repeated question. I have a straight that I would like to "work on" to develop my honing skills. (My sacrificial lamb, so to speak) I am not a complete newb, as I have sharpened knives, but straights are different.
Should I start with my 1K and follow with my 4/8K Norton and finish with my 12K Naniwa? I have some reservations about the using the 1K. It's super abrasive. Or, should I begin with the 4K? The Norton 4K really seems to have strong abrasive qualities. I also read recently right here a terrific post. (I am paraphrasing) "When you no longer abrade the tape while honing, you are ready to hone without tape". So, I plan on taping. I thought that was brilliant. I am prepared for a multitude of answers, but I am ready to be educated. Thank you in advance.

No longer abrade the tape? That would mean the spine would no longer abrade thus making the tape unnecessary. 1k knife stone is what I would use. Save the time and unnecessary wear on the 4k.

My guess would be that it really depends on how bad the bevel/edge is in the first place. It would be faster to reset the bevel with a 1k if the edge was chipped as it wears away metal faster than the 4K would. The downside is that beginners tend to be heavy handed and you may take away more metal than is necessary. The 4K will reset a bevel at a slower pace so you need patience. It will allow you to gradually get to where you want to go possibly avoiding removing more metal than needed.

It really is a personal choice.

I’m with Bob. It does depend a bit on the razor. Does the razor have a bevel established? Razors that have been heavily restored and no longer have the reminants of a bevel require a lot more material to be removed. In the case of the restored razor, I would say that honing is more restoration bevel setting, and takes a lot more time. If you are simply resetting and established bevel then the 4K is a good way for a new person at razor honing to sneak up on the edge.
When I honed my first few razors I put so much pressure on the spine that it wore through the tape pretty fast. The wear on the tape is a pretty good indicator where you are applying the pressure. The spine is to touch the hone, but the pressure should be on the edge. I agree that tape is good for new guys. Guys that have been around and can hone without destroying the geometry of the razor, tape is likely optional.

I know I have seen something like that someplace


Oh yeah, there is a small thread about doing something like that

https://sharprazorpalace.com/honing/...on-2012-a.html

you could use a Nani 12k if you choose to,, but I think a good 1k will get there quicker

Originally Posted by gssixgun

I know I have seen something like that someplace


Oh yeah, there is a small thread about doing something like that

https://sharprazorpalace.com/honing/...on-2012-a.html

A thread where folks sign up to willingly kill their edge???? That's hard to wrap my head around, but hey, maybe it isn't so bad if you are really good at restoring the edge.

Originally Posted by lightcs1776

A thread where folks sign up to willingly kill their edge???? That's hard to wrap my head around, but hey, maybe it isn't so bad if you are really good at restoring the edge.

Sometimes, killing an edge is the only way to remove previous honing sins and start over afresh. Sometimes, it can be overkill and that’s where looking carefully at the edge and knowing what you are doing and seeing is so important.

If you aren’t sure, take a picture and ask for help. It can save a lot of pain.

If you have an edge with chipping, sometimes killing the edge first is the quickest way to insure you get a decent bevel.

Originally Posted by DZEC

Sometimes, killing an edge is the only way to remove previous honing sins and start over afresh. Sometimes, it can be overkill and that’s where looking carefully at the edge and knowing what you are doing and seeing is so important.

If you aren’t sure, take a picture and ask for help. It can save a lot of pain.

Originally Posted by RayClem

If you have an edge with chipping, sometimes killing the edge first is the quickest way to insure you get a decent bevel.

Thanks for the explanation.