Thread: Honing Advice Needed

Originally Posted by Jnatcat

I don’t personally care for those so called lapping stone and IMHO you are better off getting a Atoma 400 lapping plate and later down the line you can buy a 1200 stick on replacement and put it on the back side of the 400 and now you have a lapping plate and slurry plate

That would certainly be nice. Gotta make the most of what I've got right now though. If I really want a slurry I use a trans Ark as a rubbing stone.

Try focus honing on the outer side of your hone, somehow this works. Magic marker of course.

Also, I have a 1K that acts a bit strange, it's very peculiar about pressure (very light) and the amount of water used (can't get mine get any bit dry). I often get a "false" reading from it, what I often do is go to my next stone in line a 3K or 5K and do some strokes and then try an arm shave test, coming off these stones I can get an easier and cleared read. It'll probably mimmic your results from the 1K, but I feel it's easier to judge how far off I am when the edge is a bit more refined, but many times I've had it actually shave some hair this way. At least I knew my edge bevel was almost there and needed some perfecting.

If my synthetics fail and my edge is not damaged and I'm having trouble getting the bevel set/shaving I go to a narrow BBW and use it dry, somehow this works wonderful for me.

Here are pics.

Are u using tape.? Looking at the wear, I'd say two layers, and a rolling X stroke, should get u where u want.

Definitely use the bevel angle calculator, take the guessing out

http://www.coticule.be/wedges.html?f...alculation.xls

Honing is apexing the edge(setting the bevel) and then polishing. An accurate stroke takes time to develop. Keep at it. You may ruin one or 2 blades until you develop this. But I would keep it simple. Jmo

Yup, 2 layers of tape to make up for the hone wear.

Both look like they could use some heel correction, the bottom one, the corner is right at the front of the stabilizer and probably why it has a narrower toe than heel, and all the spine wear. The past honers used more pressure trying to get the heel honed. Notice the wear marks on the top of the stabilizer.

The top one has wear marks on the tang, so watch you stroke and line up the heel on the edge of the stone, but not on the stabilizer.

If you hone on the stabilizer, half of the blade from the heel side may be completely off the stone. Ink the bevel and do a lap and see where you are making contact.

Pretty much always use tape. I tried a second layer on one, but it may have needed more time.

I'll tape them both with 2 layers and see how it works. I know I have trouble keeping the stabilizer off the stone so I should pay more attention to that.

Thanks for all the suggestions. Some of them I know I've heard before, but I guess I was so close to the problem they weren't coming to mind. Funny how that happens.

If the stabilizer is in the way hone the razor heel leading at like a 45 degree angle with the heel and stabilizer off the stone. If you develop a heel hook you may have to use either a Dremel or a course hone to grind it down.

With a lapped 1k and a second layer of tape I went back to work on one of them last night. Much better results. Shaved with it this morning and it seemed to perform well. I'll try the other one this evening and go from there.