Thread: Overhoning

A 1k stone well be much faster at removing the chip. You will also want to use tape on the spine to protect it from un needed wear. I usually start with 3 layers to concentrate more on the apex and then remove layers after the chip is almost gone until the bevel is set. A 30x loupe is a great tool to have. I would add that if this is your first attempt at honing then you should probably have someone else do the chip removal. Learning to hone is hard enough.

First, pics of the razor and edge will help, we may see something you are missing.

Is it a chip or a ding? There is a difference, how did it get there? If it is a ding, like hitting the faucet, the damage is greater than the visible chip. Once you remove the chip,( remove all the edge to the bottom of the chip) the steel at the bottom of the chip will be weak and may continue to chip until you remove enough and get to solid steel.

So, depending on how deep the damage goes, determines how much, (low grit) stone you need.

The good news is a Norton 4k is pretty aggressive and able to remove a good size chip easily. Though 20 circles may not be enough.

Start by jointing the edge, run the edge perpendicular to the upper corner of the stone, 2/3 times to remove a lot of the edge quickly and make the edge flat and straighter. You should be able to feel the chip. Mark the chip with a sharpie from the edge to the spine, so you can track your progress and find the chip easily. If you joint on the upper corner of the stone, you will never use that part of the stone to hone on.

Put 2 layer of tape on the spine, rest the razor on the stone and lift the spine about a ½ inch off the stone with the edge on the stone, now do sets of 20 circles on each side with even pressure. Reverse the direction of the circles with each set.

Continue to do circles until the chip is completely removed, test by lightly jointing the edge to see if you feel the chip. Once completely removed you are ready to set the bevel, grind the bevel to the proper angle, make one smooth flat bevel and get the bevels to meet at the new angle.

Put some sharpie ink on the bevels and lay the razor flat on the stone, edge and spine on the stone, do sets of 20 circles with lite pressure, you will have to reduce the back of the bevel to meet the edge. The sharpie and magnification will help you see your progress. Keep adding sharpie ink as needed to ensure you are honing all the way to the edge. A good 60x lighted loupe will help, I like the Carson MicroBrite plus, $10-15.

Replace the tape as needed, if it feels squishy, sticky or lumpy, you have burned through the tape.

Once you have completely removed the chip and are honing to the edge, (stria goes from the back of the bevel to the edge),replace the tape. Joint the edge again, use very lite pressure, just one lite stroke. Now reset the edge doing X strokes until you have a uniform stria pattern and a straight chip free edge.

If you want to make your life easier, pick up a $20 king 1k. it will do the same thing the 4k will do, only faster.

Here is an old post of a new honer removing damage and honing a razor with some very good micrographs, so you can compare your bevels to.

Second try at honing...seeking opinions/suggestions...