Thread: Shapton Kuromaku 2K... A good alternative to Chosera 1K and Naniwa SS 1K?

Hello, gents!

So, I'm new to honing but already have a good setup consisting of 2 BBWs, 1 Coticule with a slurry stone, a Naniwa SS 1K and a Shapton Kuromaku 1K.

I know the Shapton Kuromaku 1K is very fast and abrasive and that's why I'm planning to use it for light repairs.
I have the Naniwa SS 1K as my go to bevel setter.

Now, I'm looking for a good alternative to the Chosera 1K, and a second bevel-setting option because I've already have the Naniwa SS 1K.

I'm thinking about the Shapton Kuromaku 2K. This same one:



So, for those of you who are more experienced at honing and that might've used this one and the Chosera 1K or Naniwa SS 1K, how does the Shapton Kuromaku 2K compare to the Chosera or Nani? Is the result any good, any smooth?

I'm looking for a good alternative to the Chosera 1K because of my budget, an alternative other than the Nani SS1K which I already have and I'd like to know any comments on the Shapton Kuromaku 2K.

Thanks for any help,
Kind regards,
Mike

Sharpening Supplies has the Chosera 1K listed at $80 and the 2K Kuromaku at $68. Not exactly a huge saving. I haven't used the Chosera but from what I see around the forums it is considered possibly the best synth bevel setter money can buy. Save up the extra $10 and get the Chosera I say. I had a 2K Kuromaku but only really used it for knives, worked ok, I found it tended to glaze over fairly easily just using water however.

Mike
What you need is a progression, not another bevel setter. A 4-6k to ease the jump to a natural.

Do not get caught up in the, my 1k is longer than your 1k, hype. All 1k stones leave 1k stria. Some may “feel” smoother, harder, softer, faster, but the reality is a $20 King 1k will do exactly the same thing any high-dollar, (fill in the blank- stone) will do.

You need a mid-grit stone that will reduce the deep 1k stria, a 4-6k stone. I have all the stones from all the major makers, mostly I use a King 1k, King 6k and 8k Naniwia Snow White, then natural finisher.

The stone after the 1k or any bevel setter is a transition stone. The 1-2k bevel setter’s job is to flatten the bevels, set them at the correct angle and get the bevels to meet, (grinding).

The next stone,” transitions” from grinding to “polishing”, polish off/remove all the deep bevel setting stria. Every stone after that is just more polishing.

If you do not remove ALL the deep stria, it will fight you all the way. Try a $25 King 6k (S-3), from there you can make an easy jump to a BBW, (but there are lots of better finisher option and better edges). $25 will take your edges to a whole other level, any 4-6k will do the same thing.

Originally Posted by CoffeeAddict24

I know the Shapton Kuromaku 1K is very fast and abrasive and that's why I'm planning to use it for light repairs.

The Chocera 1k is also fast & therefore abrasive. The difference is the scratches are not as deep.


So, for those of you who are more experienced at honing and that might've used this one and the Chosera 1K or Naniwa SS 1K, how does the Shapton Kuromaku 2K compare to the Chosera or Nani? Is the result any good, any smooth?

If you already have the 1k Kuro, the 2k is a perfect progression to 'heal' & further refine the 1k scratches.
As far as bevel setting goes I've always preferred the finest stone that that can do the job quickly & with the least steel removed. The Kuro 2k can do the job, ezy pezy.

The Chocera stones, however, are a perfect fit for razors, the 1k easily doing the job of both the 1&2k Kuromaku.

Below is a 2k Kuromaku edge on an Iwasaki Kamisori that was chipped & rusty. Stone is fast enough to cause the burr you see. 200x.

Originally Posted by onimaru55

If you already have the 1k Kuro, the 2k is a perfect progression to 'heal' & further refine the 1k scratches.
As far as bevel setting goes I've always preferred the finest stone that that can do the job quickly & with the least steel removed. The Kuro 2k can do the job, ezy pezy.

The Chocera stones, however, are a perfect fit for razors, the 1k easily doing the job of both the 1&2k Kuromaku.

Below is a 2k Kuromaku edge on an Iwasaki Kamisori that was chipped & rusty. Stone is fast enough to cause the burr you see. 200x.

Onimaru55, thank you for sharing your experience with me.

So, I've got 2 questions based on your explanation.

1) Then, the Kuromaku 2K is great for healing and refine the scratches from the Kuromaku 1k, right?

2) In case I don't get the 2K, but set a bevel on the Kuromaku 1K, can I "heal" and refine the scratch pattern left by the 1K using a Blue Belgian with a heavy slurry or a Coticule with slurry? Because I've got 2 BBWs and a Coticule with a slurry stone. So, I can create slurry in the BBW with another BBW or the Coticule, or whatever combination that comes to mind. Is it possible to replace the scratch pattern left by the 1K with any of those natural Belgians?

Thanks a lot for any further piece of advice,
Kind regards,
Mike

It’s a bigger jump than could be with a mid grade hone.
I go 1K, 3K, 8K.
Essentially you are going 1K to 6 to 8K. It is totally doable, but something in the middle will make the transition faster. I would choose a 3 or 5K hone. For light bevel setting you could use the 3K. It will save time and laps.

Originally Posted by CoffeeAddict24

Onimaru55, thank you for sharing your experience with me.

So, I've got 2 questions based on your explanation.

1) Then, the Kuromaku 2K is great for healing and refine the scratches from the Kuromaku 1k, right? Right

2) In case I don't get the 2K, but set a bevel on the Kuromaku 1K, can I "heal" and refine the scratch pattern left by the 1K using a Blue Belgian with a heavy slurry or a Coticule with slurry? Because I've got 2 BBWs and a Coticule with a slurry stone. So, I can create slurry in the BBW with another BBW or the Coticule, or whatever combination that comes to mind. Is it possible to replace the scratch pattern left by the 1K with any of those natural Belgians?

That would depend entirely on your BB's & Cotis. Certainly such stones exist. I have a Blue that can set bevels on soft Sheffields but I wouldn't use it on hard steel. Too slow. The 2k Kuro is a known quantity & will likely be much faster than the naturals. The slower/softer the stone the more you need to flatten it & the more strokes you do the more chance of a mistake.

Thanks a lot for any further piece of advice,
Kind regards,
Mike

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I have both a Norton 1K and a Naniwa 1K SS.

I was intereted in a Chosera 1K before I bought the Nani but I read up and it seemed that although the Chosera was the bees knees it needed to be used a lot.

The Chosera I read was excellent for someone that hones a lot but for occasional home use can dry out and crack.

I may be wrong, it's just the impresion I got from my reading. Anyway, I got the Naniwa 1K SS and I'm very happy with it.

I also have the 3K - 5K - 8K - 12K SS, I have the Norton 1K - 4K/8K too but love the Nani's because they're just splash and go,no muss no fuss.

I have no experience with the specific stones you mentioned but from the description of what you have I would tend to buy something more in the middle range say from 3k-5k as has been said.
My SOP is 1k, 4k, 8k, natural finish. It seems to me that you are creating a lot of work to get to fine stria after bevel set with what you have and a lot of wear on your natural stones in the process you described.
The 2k may be a good addition but if I were trying to limit the amount of stones added the mid range is where I would add and is the gap in what you have. A 4k/8k Norton is not the cheapest at $99USD but would fill that gap and then some since it is 2 stones in one. 8k is a good sweet spot to make the jump to finisher.

Everyone,

Thanks a lot for your replies. I think I might add either the Kuromaku 2K or 3K to my setup.

Kind regards,
Mike