Thread: Created wide bevel

I created a wide bevel trying to set bevel on a hollow ground ern. Could I add another layer of tape to correct this? And am I causing this by not enough torque or just the blade being uneven on the stone? This is a problem I am having with everything I have been trying to set a bevel on. One side looks good other side is wide. Trying to figure out hand and arm position. I am keeping my wrist inline with My elbow and trying to keep arm level but I seem to be flattening out my bevel and not getting on the very edge. Been watch Glen's videos and some edge dynamic videos but I am doing something wrong. In Glen's words about to throw some razors at the wall like tomahawks lol. Paul faus there will be pictures posted later had to go to work didn't have time lol

Hollows are thin at the bevel. Just the slightest differential in pressure when honing one side to the other will cause it, aside from the spine being worn on one side more than the other which is usually caused by the same thing.

If it was not that way as beginning and becomes that way during honing it may be you should lighten up on the wide side.
Muscle memory will come. Observe early in the process to correct it.

I would say it's more likely too much pressure instead of not enough. Hollow ground blades can flex quite a bit especially a full or extra hollow which Erns often are. With extreme pressure it is conceivable that the blade could crack. It takes time to get the feel for how much pressure to use. You'll get it though. As stated, best to correct now than try to break old bad habits. Think of it this way, with too little pressure the worst that can happen is it takes longer especially if you are taping the spine.

Muscle Memory aka Honing Gymnastics is the hard part

Honing is rather simple in it's essence

Watch the Ripple of Water, Oil or Slurry at the edge

Use just enough Torque and Pressure to keep that either in front of or riding up on the blade face from heel to toe
NEVER let that ripple drop under the edge, as soon as it does adjust the Torque & Pressure until it JUST doesn't
This is Self Correcting, the sharper the edge gets the lighter the Torque & Pressure required to ride the wave

That is IT !!!

The Trick is learning the Honing Gymnastics, to do that consistently


Hints:

Use tape:
1 Layer to protect the spine
More layers to adjust geometry to a small tiny bevel when spine wear is present
Use tape until you leave no wear marks on the tape then do what you want..

Use a slightly Heel Forward stroke, make sure you are following the edge with a slight X stroke or a slight swoop

Use two hands until you understand how to adjust the stroke using one hand
ALWAYS use two hands when you need to make corrective adjustments to the bevel

ALWAYS use the Magice Maker Test on an Unknown bevel to see what you are dealing with FIRST


Hone On !!!

I think doing the sharpie test is just what you need. Will let you know if your razor is warped, smiling, flat, etc. After that I would just be doing x strokes (possibly rolling depending on the razor) until the bevel is set.

If you have a warped razor I would put it away until you were more comfortable.

Originally Posted by Christian1

If you have a warped razor I would put it away until you were more comfortable.

That's good advice and it relates to all aspects, honing, pinning, restoration, you name it. I still follow that advice today especially with restoration and even things I know how to do. For example regrinding. I have done it many times. I have also made a mess of it. One thing is certain, you can grind more off, but you can't put it back on. Sometimes it's best to just put it down and come back later.

A lot of IF's. Meaning you can have anywhere to a HAM fisted grip while honing to even honing way more on one side then the other which can cause the edge to be off center of the blade and cause a wide bevel on one side and thin on the other.

Lot of great info given above. Its up to you to try "one thing at a time over and over" to narrow down the issue of your honing. I recommend finding one guy that you like the way he hones and explains and stick with him. Not multiple persons as combining two or three ways of honing is for the experienced. Do this to find your own way of honing after you have a few years of honing experience.

Be sure you understand how to measure a bevel angle. Add tape to get the angle correct. IMO around 17 degrees. In the beginning that is what did to make for a more perfect bevel angle. Over the years I still use tape but just to keep the spine protected. The angle is not as important unless its a really bad angle or wonky blade.

Toss those wonky blades in the drawer for another year. Learn to hone on non warped blades. As Glen says, honing is easy until it ain't. It took me 2 years before I was satisfied with my own edge. I know I drove a bunch of guys nuts asking questions. Then another 2 years before others said my edge was good. But at that time I liked a lot more keen and less smooth then others.

And don't ever think the Sharpie test is not important. Its the best way to see what you are really doing!