Thread: Sharpening My First Gold Dollar Razor

Welcome back.

Bevel set is the very most important step but also, somewhat poetically, the hardest to master. To reiterate what others have said many times in numerous places, it takes as long as it takes...period. There's no fudging bevel set. Everything else hinges on it and is for naught unless it is done correctly and completely. Efforts past it are not as crucial and result in a shave that instead of, "WOW," are more, "meh," but usually not, "UGH," which results from improper or incomplete bevel set.

Please take this as constructive critique since that is how it is meant. If I recall, before you were pulling advice and knowledge from a lot of different sources. That is not necessarily a bad thing but it can be if it pulls you in conflicting directions. I think (my $0.02 worth) that you are better served to pick one method from one instruction source and successfully execute it, then branch out to other methods. Once you have gotten a grip on one proven method you have a foundation to build on.

Glen's instruction should have been a boon for you. I hope you took notes. Pretty much any of us who are skilled at it will be willing to help you get there if you are a willing and receptive student.

My advice might be different from someone else's but I know it will work for you if you, for the time being, forget about what Tom, Dick or Harry said and listen to what I tell you. Learn from Tom, Dick and Harry afterwards. Conversely, their ways may even be better than mine but if you are thinking about what I told you while they are showing you it will keep you from learning their way. Especially if you are struggling eliminate the variables. Take one path and make it to the finish. Rabbit trails are a road hazard.

If you want a tried and true method here is one in a nutshell.
1) hone half X's (one side of the blade only) down and back up repeatedly until you acheive a bur you can feel with your finger on one side the whole length of the blade. Pay particular attention to the area(s) that bur last or are hesitant to form one. This can mean many things but for our purposes just store that knowledge for now.
2) Pay attention to, but don't necessarily count, the strokes it took to get your bur the whole length and once you have it reverse sides and repeat until you have a bur the whole length on the other side. This should be half or less the amount of strokes it took you to get the bur on the first side. Again take note of the areas late to bur. If it was the same area this may mean that you need more pressure at that point or you may need to rock the blade. It could just be the nature of the grinding or an incomplete factory edge. If so that should sort out once the bevel is set. You'll know more later as you progress.
3)Now, if it took you say 20 half laps to get to the bur on the second side, reverse and do 10 on the first then the second sides. Then do 5, then 3 etc. The number is not crucial, just reduce the number until you are at 1. The idea is to now lose the bur. After this go to regular X stroke laps using magnification to see that you truly are getting an apex the whole length.
4) Now joint your edge, meaning draw the edge along the edge of you stone with just the weight of the blade. One or two times should be sufficient. This should get rid of any reisidual bur or wire edge.
5) Return to regular X strokes diminishing pressure as you go and checking often with magnificatiin until you cannot see any sparkly bits either from a side view of the bevel or looking straight down on it.

Once you get to this point your bevel is set. It is also helpful to strop along the way but be aware that this can leave metal fragments or grit from stones in your strop. Wiping the blade on a rag will help but I keep a canvas strop dedicated for honing only. If need be, repeat the jointing and x strokes afterwards as this helps clean up the edge. Also look at your edge with magnification a lot at the different stages. This "visual" helps you conceptualize the method. Also, a helpful hint is that the bur is easier to feel if your finger is dry. That one stupid little trick took a while for me to learn.

Again, this is not the only way and not even the best way to reach bevel set but it absolutely will get you there. The "bur" method makes it very quantifiable removing a lot of the guess work. Try this method and once you have been able to repeat it then the lightbulb over your head starts to light up.