Thread: Do you ever leave microchips?

I'm curious if you all go back to low low grits (diamond hone or equivalent) to get rid of microchips, or if you go to something medium (4K, blue, TOS, etc.).

If I think it's corrosion causing it I'll go down to low grits to get rid of some of the punk metal. If on the other hand I think flawed honing's the culprit (too much pressure, uneven pressure or strokes, overhoning), the Tam O'Shanter's just perfect for smoothing out the bevel and edge without adding any deep scratches. Though it takes a good many strokes.

(is punk metal an oxymoron? )

I go back to my diamond hone to get rid of microchips. My medium hone, the Belgian blue, is just too slow to get rid of them. Or maybe I'm too impatient. But it would take hundreds and hundreds of strokes with a slurry...

A few strokes on the diamond hone sets it right, and then I do some extra strokes on the Belgian blue to get rid of the DMT scratches.

This discussion has me wondering about chips that may appear after some use. I'm going to have to go back and check some of my razors to see if any show signs of chipping. Very curious, I am.

Josh

Originally Posted by izlat

If new chips are forming I think you may have failed to remove all the bad steel from the old oxidized edge (that's what Nenad was saying, I assume)

Cheers
Ivo

yep, true. All bad steel must go...

Nenad

Originally Posted by superfly

yep, true. All bad steel must go...

Nenad

Ok. I'll put it on clearance sale then.
This appears to be the issue.

Originally Posted by Friggin Joe

Ok. I'll put it on clearance sale then.
This appears to be the issue.

Whoa, sounds drastic. I'd say just take it to some low grits and get down to good steel.

That's what Superfly means by "bad steel's gotta go," unless I'm mistaken.

I was joking about "all bad steel must go" being put on clearance sale.
I like that blade more than most family members.
I'll hit the 1000 grit japanese stone later.

Sorry, I'm a bit dimwitted today...

I usually start on 800 or 1200 grit sandpaper, doublesticktaped to a piece of glass. It cuts VERY fast, and leaves a great edge.

On e-bay finds that are not that drastically damaged, just start on a N4K, and perfect your stroke over lot's of reps, although you'll be finished in 20-30 strokes if you use the sandpaper method...

Nenad

The approach that I follow is to use the least aggressive approach first. In this case I would use the TOS (preferred) or the N4K.
It is not unusual to have some microchips develop after shaving. My guide is to not worry bout it unless it is uncomfortable to shave with.

Just my two cents.

FJ,
You shouldn't be getting microchips. If you are, figure out why before you go to a coarser stone and then work back to razor edge otherwise the same thing will keep happening. One can shave with duller razor but why? You're more likely to cut yourself. It's not like a dull Sensor or DE . . . one slip and chunks come off. "It's easier to keep your razor sharp than it is to sharpen your razor".