Thread: DMT dilemma

Hey Josh et al,

Have you worn out your coarse DMT yet? For me diamonds seem to not be forever. About 2" on one end of my DMT course (sic, but so many seem to be similarly spell-check affected) or 325 whatever seems to have lost its grit. I'm just curious if you, or anyone else, has had similar misfortune with their end-all and be-all smoother and lapper.

I've lapped my Chinese 12K and my Spiderco UF, among other stones and hones, and am wondering if the Spiderco may have stripped the diamonds as that one seemed to not want to be smoothed and trued, or if already smooth and true took umbrage with my efforts and in a moment of pique the lappee took it's resentments out on the lapper.

I'm in the process of lapping the Spyderco M, F, and UF grits right now. Almost done except for one side of the UF. Four sides were out by very near the allowed +/-0.020 (so I've been at it quite a while, well over 60 hours). I've used extremely light to almost no down-pressure while lapping. A Swaty was also lapped on this plate.

My D8C shows light "wear" on the edges and to a smaller degree in the center. The edges even show a light perimeter of nickel in places. Dragging my fingernail over the lighter parts show that they are still cutting. As long as you feel some resistance/grittiness when you pull your nail over it, it's still probably cutting.

Bruce,

I'm with Steven. I've heard it's possible to pop the diamonds out of the nickel plating, mainly by using too much pressure. But so far, so good. The hones do change in appearance and feel as they are used, though. I sent Howard a number of semi-panicked e-mails for the first few weeks of using mine. But all is well.

Josh

Josh,

Unfortunately on my DMT coarse, one end is smooth and shiny without a hint of grit. I probably pushed too hard with one or another lappee as I tend to exercise things hard. Doubtless this same technique foiled my early attempts at honing. However, this "use the weight of the razor only" technique for honing is impossible for me as my fingers are significantly heavier than the razor and teleportation has me totally stymied. If I hold the face of the stone vertical, I can get almost to the point of razor weight only, but, of course, that's not enough to change scratch one on the bevel.

I tell ya, it's a long hard road

Don't have a 325; my lowest DMT is 600.

I also am noticing it's different, but - as already stated - the surface still cuts. Doesn't feel as rough as when I got it but I was told that's normal

Cheers
Ivo

Do you know anybody with a surface grinder and diamond wheel? It just may be worth it for ceramic stones.

It is beginning to become apparent that the DMT is effective for waterstones/natural stones and razors but not so practical for ceramics.

Just my two cents,

If anyone is interested, I'd be willing to try lapping one of these on my DMT 120. The stories I'm hearing are sounding a lot like the barber hone stories, so I'm thinking the coarser hone may do the trick.

Just thought I'd offer.

Josh

Originally Posted by Bruce

...
I've lapped my Chinese 12K and my Spiderco UF, among other stones and hones, and am wondering if the Spiderco may have stripped the diamonds as that one seemed to not want to be smoothed and trued, or if already smooth and true took umbrage with my efforts and in a moment of pique the lappee took it's resentments out on the lapper.

I am beginning to believe that a bit too much pressure w the UF would be fully capable of popping the diamonds out of the DMT's nickel (my D8C still looks ok at this point; using only light pressure).

IMO the UF (and Fine) is far harder than a Swaty or a Carborundum barber hone.

I read somewhere else that "A Spyderco UF is like a barber hone on steroids." No argument here...

Comparing a Spyderco UF to a Pike Ezy-Edge barber hone would be similar to comparing carbide tool steel to a ball of cotton-candy.

To Josh:

• I'm so tired of watching white Spyderco hones working their way across a DMT that I am now down to only one or two hours a day of lapping them... (some days I even take a day off). I even ran out and bought a Pike just so I could lap something different for a change (it went far too quickly).
• If this UF isn't where I want it by the end of the month, I'll PM you on your offer.

Steven,

Sounds good. I might regret the offer; I once lapped a translucent Arkansas hone. Ugh--never again.

Josh

Originally Posted by Sticky

I am beginning to believe that a bit too much pressure w the UF would be fully capable of popping the diamonds out of the DMT's nickel (my D8C still looks ok at this point; using only light pressure).

IMO the UF (and Fine) is far harder than a Swaty or a Carborundum barber hone.

I read somewhere else that "A Spyderco UF is like a barber hone on steroids." No argument here...

Comparing a Spyderco UF to a Pike Ezy-Edge barber hone would be similar to comparing carbide tool steel to a ball of cotton-candy.

To Josh:

• I'm so tired of watching white Spyderco hones working their way across a DMT that I am now down to only one or two hours a day of lapping them... (some days I even take a day off). I even ran out and bought a Pike just so I could lap something different for a change (it went far too quickly).
• If this UF isn't where I want it by the end of the month, I'll PM you on your offer.

Originally Posted by Bruce

Josh,

Unfortunately on my DMT coarse, one end is smooth and shiny without a hint of grit. I probably pushed too hard with one or another lappee as I tend to exercise things hard. Doubtless this same technique foiled my early attempts at honing. However, this "use the weight of the razor only" technique for honing is impossible for me as my fingers are significantly heavier than the razor and teleportation has me totally stymied. If I hold the face of the stone vertical, I can get almost to the point of razor weight only, but, of course, that's not enough to change scratch one on the bevel.

Bruce, if you take a piece of glass, edge of a jar/bottle, etc, across the shiny areas of that DMT, does it scratch the glass? DMT's website under the FAQ from what I recall basically says if areas such as you describe still scratch glass (makes sense), you're fine.