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  1. #12
    BHAD cured Sticky's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chrisl View Post
    So, on your cheeks for example, with toe leading you're shaving toward your ears rather that the overall direction being toward the midline of your face as with heel leading?
    ...
    First, grab this "1961 Barbering text - Shaving" so I can use it's illustrations. Figures 27, 28, and 29 use an angle of about 40 degrees toe-leading. I only use 10 to 20 degrees. When I first start the sideburn trim I use about 10 degrees and take a very short 1/4" or less stroke (so as to miss the ear), as in Figure 27 (cutting edge horizontal, stroke around 10-20 degrees, from vertical, toward the toe.). For almost all of the remaining shave, I angle the cutting edge with the toe 10-20 degrees horizontally lower than the heel, and making the stroke vertically (very close to Fig. 29).

    Either way: the edge sees the actual cut the same way; we're just looking at identical geometry described in two different ways.

    I don't use 40 degrees as in the barber text because I think it's too much and too risky for my skill level.

    We all instinctively use a drawing/scything motion with a knife because we know it cuts better and cleaner that way. Why should the same idea, with a razor, surprise us?

    I'm in the group that likes the x-stroke on cutting edges of all kinds. I just think I get better edges that way. That's my story and I'm sticking to it...
    Last edited by Sticky; 03-13-2008 at 09:47 PM. Reason: forgot link...

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