Thread: 3M Micro Abrasive Film, A Usage Guide and Review

I use pieces of the pinnacle system variety pack in my travel kit
from woodcraft supply
#147990 the variety pack has 1 sheet 3 grits, finest is .3 micron
I cut some to fit a small spyderco 1000 grit slipstone and the rest to fit a balsa wood "card". The coarsest grit I didn't use
cool stuff but too disposable for the long run imho

Originally Posted by TstebinsB

I just purchased some 3M Micron Finishing Paper from Progress Tool. They carry a large selection. These aren't micro-abrasives but they are advertised as the grits we'd use to sharpen. I purchased 2 sheets of each and they cost me $13.80 shipped. I'll let you know if they're good after I get them.

3M Micron Finishing Paper - 1 Micron / 8000 Grit (Lt. Green)
3M Micron Finishing Paper - 2 Micron / 6000 Grit (Mint)
3M Micron Finishing Paper - 3 Micron / 4000 Grit (Pink)
3M Micron Finishing Paper - 9 Micron / 1200 Grit (Blue)

Progress Tool carries many different papers. However, these are definitely not appropriate for using with razors. These papers feel more like a cloth than sandpaper. Don't waste your money.. like I did.

Originally Posted by TstebinsB

Progress Tool carries many different papers. However, these are definitely not appropriate for using with razors. These papers feel more like a cloth than sandpaper. Don't waste your money.. like I did.

see my post above They are even hone shaped something like 3 x 11 less than 8 bucks

I am now using a flat granite plate I got on sale from Woodcraft. It's awesome for using with lapping films! It is certified flat to below 2 microns across the entire surface!

No need for any type of adhesive. I put a dollup of water down on the granite, lay the film down, and use a damp cloth to press out the excess water, which also helps to clean off any shmutz that was on the film from my previous honing. After the water is all pressed out, the film stays put via stiction from the very thin layer of water under there. Also, if there is anything that gets under the film, you can simply lift it up, clean it out and press it back down again. And when you're done with one grit level, simply peel it off and apply your next one.

Works great! I love my granite slab. I had been using glass plates, but somehow this feels better. I also used it as a surface for sandpaper to lap my Chinese 12k.

Bringing up my old thread

I haven't posted in here for a while because, well, I haven't had anything to hone for a while.

That is finally done with as a few of my razors have dulled down to the point where a refresh just isn't cutting it so It's time for another honing session with these hones.

I decided to peel the 1 micron re-apply it just to make sure the grey streaks are swarf and not the abrasive having been worn away (the film is transparent). It was still stuck perfectly flat as is the 5 micron so they actually were still ready to use even after the better part of a year tucked away in a drawer. It just peeled off leaving a bit of the adhesive behind. The adhesive came up instantly with a quick application of goo gone. I cleaned the glass then used Bruces dish soap trick below to apply the new sheet.

The dish soap worked perfectly, there were fewer bubbles and they smoothed right out, I don't think I would have needed the laminate roller to get good adhesion and bubble removal but since I have it I ran it across the surface anyway. This gave me a perfect honing surface in seconds. I blotted up the excess soapy water and let the hone dry so the adhesive would stick. A couple of hours later it was ready for use.

Once again they performed very well and with the ease of applying the film this time, I could safely recommend this as a viable way to enter the honing realm with start up costs much much less than those of a traditional hone.

Originally Posted by Bruce

Wildtim,

Have you tried the decal appliers' technique of wetting the surface and/or the applique with water mixed with a tiny bit of dishwashing detergent before sticking the two surface together? I spoke with someone who puts the decals on our Highway Patrol cars, asking how they got them on so smoothly and he said water, soap and a squeegee. Wet everything, soak the decal, hold it up and apply it to the car door, and squeegee out the bubbles (or roll out with your plastic laminate roller). Once the water is worked out of the joint between the substrate and applique, the adhesive can make a smooth semi-permanent or permanent bond depending on the type of glue. This should work as well for different materials such as your abrasive films.