Results 11 to 17 of 17
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08-30-2008, 11:34 PM #11
First of all, I will mention that I have two Wackers and I found them the hardest to get tuned up where I wanted them. They appear to be very hard metal.
Next, you did not mention whether you lapped your hones. This might account for some uneven results combined with a potential technique problem. I use a DMT-8C to lap my hones before starting a session. If the honing session lasts very long, I may touch the hone up during the session.
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08-30-2008, 11:35 PM #12
I agree, touchups should be done on your finishing stone. You could easily get by
with 10-30 strokes on your coticule with water.
- Scott
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08-30-2008, 11:36 PM #13
xChris thanks for the encouragement, I did go back and found a double bevel in the are where I couldn't get it to pass the TNT. I did numerous laps on the 4K side to get rid of it and moved on the the coticule then to CrO2 to finish. I'm still not getting a good enough shave to make me happy so tomorrow I'll take it back to the paste because I know that will sharpen it up for my beard. I just don't like having to spend so much time at the hone.
thebigspendur I think I'm with you on this. I should have only gone back to the yellow. Live and learn.
I'm thinking that if the Shaptons are faster that down the road I'l try those next. It's a time thing with me. I know some guys get into the whole Zen of honing, not me , not now. Maybe later.
Thanks fellas!
Randy
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08-30-2008, 11:39 PM #14
Yep, I lap before I hone every time. But thanks for the heads up!
Scott you're right. Next time it's only back to the coticule for me.
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08-31-2008, 05:44 AM #15
FWIW, I find that it takes more time to prep my work area-ie. getting the stones out,loupe,proper lighting etc., than it does to actually complete the honing on 1 razor. I just can't emphasize enough that the satisfaction of learning to hone a quality edge is worth the effort. Just have to keep it simple and concentrate on the task at hand.
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08-31-2008, 06:30 AM #16
i found this post very interesting, i was havind a lot of trouble getting a wicked sharp edge, i could get a decent shave but just not bbs smooth, i think everyones helpful replys help out any that read them, i never considered a pyramid on other hones, but i will now, my problem is not setting the bevel correctly in the 1st place 1.2 dmt took care of that after a days worth of breaking it in on meat cleavers and just about anything i could think of, thanks to the poster and to all that responded with very good replys
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09-01-2008, 03:28 AM #17
After giving it more thought, I'd like to point out that for me initially I was getting very SHARP edges-but NOT getting comfortable shaves. The wiskers were gone, the razor zipped right through them,but my face felt like I was in a motorcycle accident.
Passing the HHT,which is neat for sure,but IMO is no guarantee of a GOOD QUALITY shave.You can generate a scary sharp edge using relatively coarse stones. Touch it to your face and you think there is glass in your soap.The resulting "teeth" that the hone creates in the initial stage will easy cleave a hanging hair.Or will allow it to plow through you arm hair-popping them off at a furious rate-But NOW you have created a sharp "shape" and now you must refine that SHAPE WITHOUT smoothing its geometry-yet burnishing the serrations.Some may argue that a micro smooth blade is not as aggressive cutting whiskers-but it also doesn't shred the epidermis causing razor burn.
Having started to use the Shapton Glass hones,its possible to rapidly polish the edge ALL THE WHILE keeping the geometry of the edge. With natural hones, the slow rate at which they cut,do prevent wearing out the blade but allow the edge to blunt-UNLESS you techique is perfect. The possibility of damaging the edge is obviously higher the longer you have to hone it.Then when you also throw in using abrasive pasts on strops-TECHNIQUE again plays a critical role. An abrasive strop without perfect technique can dull your edge in a few strokes-literally. I truly believe the ability to maintain the edges shape is critical, any act that gives that shape a convex "curve" while polishing-will limit the blade from cleaving the whisker without using excessive pressure-again causing nicks, and irritation. Again, this is another reason to use some visual method-under even moderate magnification you can see the shape of the bevel AND make sure it keeps its geometry all the while burnishing the teeth and hence creating a "smoother" edge and NOT rounding it over.
This is simply my opinion, and some may argue my reasoning, and I'm sure what is COMFORTABLE to me-may not work for others with a finer beard that would require a more aggressive edge(ie. more teeth)to adequately cleave their facial hair. A smooth edge could also result in irritation if it take more strokes to remove the whiskers.
In conclusion, I think our physical differences-are the number 1 reason to learn to hone OUR OWN blades. If you can get enjoyable shaves,yet not be able to perfrom the HHT and impress your friends-YOUR FACE will thank you. Or on the other hand you may feel I'm full of ....Last edited by Lt.Arclight; 09-01-2008 at 03:41 AM.