Thread: If you had it to do over again...

D8C( maybe D8F), Norton 4K/8K, Yellow Couticle - 6" X 2" yellow couticle ($200 from Howard)

OR

D6C (maybe D6F), BBW, Yellow Couticle - all 6"X 2" stones($160 from Howard)


1) Could I go from the D8C to the Norton 4k/8k or would I use D8C, Yellow with slurry, Norton 4k/8k, Yellow with water

2) Would the D8F make a good hone for both lapping and a low grit (600) starting stone. Anyone else use one for lapping?

You'll have more flexibility with the first package over the second package but I would go for at D8C for either of the two packages and skip the smaller D6C. You never know when you'll run into another hone down the road where the D8C's size will come in handy and it does not hamper you when flattening smaller hones. The D8C vs the D8F.... the D8C is the workhorse in flatting other hones, the D8F will work but will be slower and wear out faster... it might also *dull* the hones you flatten more than the coarser one. You want those diamonds to quickly level the hone you're flattening by cutting the binder in the hone, finer diamonds will have more of an effect on the grit embedded in the binder, possibly fracturing some of that grit and in a way, dull it. It's probably minor in this case but the wear on the diamond hone is not. The closer in size the grit on the coarsest hone you are flattening is with the diamond grit of the lapping plate, the more wear to the nickel plating that is holding those diamonds in place. DMT suggests the 325 and 220 grit plates for flattening water hones.

I would normally never start a razor on a D8C unless it was grossly damaged as such a coarse hone will likely do a fair bit of damage itself. I'd wet the Norton 8k side and use some 1000 grit wet/dry laid on top for the rough work, then switch to the 4k side and finish the bevel, then the 8k and finally the coticule. For regular maintenance honing you'll be fine with just the coticule though you might feel the need to return to the 8k for 10 or 20 strokes if you've let the razor go a bit far.

Regards

Christian

Originally Posted by kaptain_zero

That toolbox with the 3 nortons..... I wouldn't bother. I've got one of the plastic honing boxes from LV and it's gathering dust here... too much trouble to clean out, potential mold issues unless you use bleach in the water etc. etc.

I have never had a problem with mold because I dump the water out after using it. I would never expose my hones to bleach because I would never want to expose my razors to bleach.

Originally Posted by BJC

Bart, and others who recommended the BBW/ Couticle, would these two be up to restoring blades with minor chips or dings and resetting bevels? I'm not seeing myself doing severly damaged razors, but want something that can handle some restoration on razors I find here and there.

That's why I said: get a fast Coticule. They show quite a variance speed-wise, when used with slurry. How fast a Coticule cuts is easily observed, and both Howard or Ardennes Coticules shouldn't have a problem providing you with one. For minor chips and bevel correction, such a Coticule works like a charm. No soaking, it doesn't glaze up, it almost doesn't dish out, no overhoning risk.

Originally Posted by BJC

Tenatively, I 'm considering the following but have some questions:

D8C( maybe D8F), Norton 4K/8K, Yellow Couticle - 6" X 2" yellow couticle ($200 from Howard)

OR

D6C (maybe D6F), BBW, Yellow Couticle - all 6"X 2" stones($160 from Howard)

If it needs to double for lapping purposes, you really need the 8x3 size.

Originally Posted by BJC

1) Could I go from the D8C to the Norton 4k/8k or would I use D8C, Yellow with slurry, Norton 4k/8k, Yellow with water

I consider this a big step, the D8C really is like walking with an elephant in a porcelain store (to use a Belgian expression) That's why I brought up the D8F option.

Originally Posted by BJC

2) Would the D8F make a good hone for both lapping and a low grit (600) starting stone. Anyone else use one for lapping?

I have used my D8F for lapping Coticules and Belgian Blues, without any problem, it just takes much longer than a D8C. So far, I haven't felt the need to lap one of my Belgian hones a second time. They only dish out at an extremely slow rate. If you bought them lapped by Howard, it could be years (depending on how much use they get) before you'd ever wanted to lap them again. I don't really know about lapping the Norton. I don't have one. But I understand some guys lap the 4K side a few swipes every time they use it. I don't see a reason why that shouldn't work with a D8F.

I of course picked option #3 but I would not trade anything for my experience with the other hones. These are where I learned to hone and made my mistakes. I found that all hones are not alike and each one has its own personality and has its own learning curve to be used to its full potential. The Shaptons are the only hones that are uniform from grit to grit and the technique and feel for use is the same for all. I have enjoyed and am still enjoying this learning experience.

bj

Thanks everyone for the replies and suggestions. I now have the beginnings of my set headed my way. I picked up a Norton 4k /8k, DMT8c, DMT6E, and Chinese 12k from another member. They were sold as sets for a very good (I think) price so I picked them up. I'll look into a couticle a little later after I've had time to acquire the basics with these hones.

BJ

With travel as a consideration, I believe I would look at weight and space considerations. Based on that, I would go completely with the Shapton Glass stone set up. Probably 1K, 4K, 8K, 16K and then bring either .5 diamond spray or paste and .5 chromium oxide. These would provide the most consistent and best edge producing set up for you in my opinion.

I don't think I have a suitcase big enough for all my hones.......

Good Luck!

Lynn

lapping: sandpaper. Hones: Norton 1K. Ardennes Cot. BBW w/ slurry. Ardennes Cot yellow coticule. Chinese 12K. Linen and Leather.

DMT D8C
DMT D6E
Barber hone(s)

I might add a DMT D8EE. I already had a DMT Machinist F (600 mesh).