Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 19

Thread: bevel not flat

  1. #1
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    1,588
    Thanked: 286

    Default bevel not flat

    I have no problems honing my razors with rolling stroke to get the toe and heal when those areas don't make full contact. My question is how do i make the middle of edge make contact as when i ly my blade flat on hone the middle on one side does'nt make full contact on my hone not the whole middle about 5
    mil. Even thought as i do expattern anbring the razor down the hone towards me as the heal leaves the hone that section does make contact only forming a slight bevel and on the opposite side a fat bevel.As the razor is only a thew months old i have only just noticed it as i was honing this one this morning. Can this be corrected as if so i will send it to a pro. The razor is a issards special adition and has straifgt place engraved on the wooden scales it from cs and only members could purchase these it i s signed by lynn

  2. #2
    Senior Member blabbermouth hi_bud_gl's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    4,521
    Thanked: 1636

    Default HONE

    I HOPE I WILL clear enough.tape the middle.part which isn;t contact with the hone.this is backword work but it does the job.just use 1 layers of the black electric tape or it is too much differences use 2 layers.hope this helps
    non english language sorry this is my best

  3. #3
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    1,588
    Thanked: 286

    Default

    Not quite got that but thanxs for trying may be some one else can shed some light on what you are trying to explain.

  4. #4
    Coticule researcher
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Belgium
    Posts
    1,872
    Thanked: 1212

    Default

    It sounds to me as if your razor has a little warp in the middle of the blade.
    If it's not much, the regular X-stroke will deal with it. It doesn't really matter that, on the affected spot, one side the bevel pane is small and on the opposite side wide. As long as both panes meet each other at the keenest possible line. In fact, you can't avoid that kind of warp to show up as uneven width in the bevel panes.
    I always keep an eye on the honing water, running up the edge. If it doesn't run up the edge at the affected spot, then that part is really dull and/or not touching the hone. It's okay to drop the part that's already off the hone during the X-stroke by a very small amount. (Sort of the opposite of the rolling X on a smiling edge). If you watch the water running up the edge, with the intention of making it run up, you'll adjust your stroke almost automatically (I'm presuming that you hone single handedly).

    Hope this helps,
    Bart.

  5. #5
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    1,588
    Thanked: 286

    Default

    yes bart i do hone single handed
    . and look have it as i do x pattern this part does hit the hone as the razor the razor comes down the hone because as the heal comes of my hone and then razor comes flat and the other side the heal is real out so i begin stroke with the heal this the second razor i have had with this same problem.I will always check for this from now on and not use any razor untill i am happy with it. I honed this with one layer of tape and then i took the tape of and rehoned to set egde againwich it has'nt realy helped as now i have a good edge but i kcan kind off see the begining of the taped bevel that run above my new bevel if you understand what i mean.it is a real shame as it is a nice razor i've put it flat on cd and i can see the problem if i push razor forward it keeps flat but then there is to mucc pressure being used.

  6. #6
    Coticule researcher
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Belgium
    Posts
    1,872
    Thanked: 1212

    Default

    I'm not sure I completely understand the problem, Gary.
    The blade has a slight warp in the middle, right? A small high spot if it lays on one side, which becomes a low spot as you flip is over. Am I understanding that correctly?

    About the tape issue: if the bevel is set with tape on the spine, than you need to complete the honing job with tape on the spine. If you choose to change the honing regime to tape-less, than you need to stay on a bevel-setting hone, till the new bevel is formed all the way till the outer edge.

    Bart.

  7. #7
    Hones & Honing randydance062449's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Saint Paul, Minnesota, United States
    Posts
    7,972
    Thanked: 2202
    Blog Entries
    1

    Default

    The width of a bevel is not that important. What is important is that there is a bevel for the full length of the blade and that the bevel goes all the way to the edge. If you have that then you are ok. You can use the Thumb Nail Test to tell you if the bevel is formed on both sides of the blade and for the full length of the blade.

    If not then what Bud is suggesting just might work. On the side where the bevel is narrow place a piece of tape on the spine. The length of the tape should be as long as the narrow portion of the bevel. I would then add another layer of tape on both sides and reset the bevel. You might also try using 2 layers of tape.

    If this is not clear let me know.
    There is another option but that involves using a rounded edge/side of the hone and very, very light pressure.

    Bud, Bart ...good call!
    Randolph Tuttle, a SRP Mentor for residents of Minnesota & western Wisconsin

  8. #8
      Lynn's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    St. Louis, Missouri, United States
    Posts
    8,454
    Thanked: 4941
    Blog Entries
    2

    Default

    If I am honing a blade as you describe, I find that using the X pattern at a 45 degree angle on the stone going both ways, instead of the usual 90 degree angle,will get the entire edge on the stone as you do your stroke both ways.


    Lynn

  9. #9
    The Great & Powerful Oz onimaru55's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Bodalla, NSW
    Posts
    15,595
    Thanked: 3747

    Default

    This where narrow hones are useful. if you have a single grit stone you can hone on the narrower side.
    “The white gleam of swords, not the black ink of books, clears doubts and uncertainties and bleak outlooks.”

  10. #10
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    1,588
    Thanked: 286

    Default

    yes bart high spot one side low spot when i flip it over but if i lay the blade across my hone and only lay the toe end and middle and leave the edge heal part of the hone still keeping spine flat the middle and toe lay perfectly flat it is as if the heal when i slide that part back on to the hone the middle then lifts back of the hone its seems like the heal is causing the problem that is why as i hone and the heal leaves the hone the middle does make contact.

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •