Thread: bevel not flat

I have no problems honing my razors with rolling stroke to get the toe and heal when those areas don't make full contact. My question is how do i make the middle of edge make contact as when i ly my blade flat on hone the middle on one side does'nt make full contact on my hone not the whole middle about 5
mil. Even thought as i do expattern anbring the razor down the hone towards me as the heal leaves the hone that section does make contact only forming a slight bevel and on the opposite side a fat bevel.As the razor is only a thew months old i have only just noticed it as i was honing this one this morning. Can this be corrected as if so i will send it to a pro. The razor is a issards special adition and has straifgt place engraved on the wooden scales it from cs and only members could purchase these it i s signed by lynn

I HOPE I WILL clear enough.tape the middle.part which isn;t contact with the hone.this is backword work but it does the job.just use 1 layers of the black electric tape or it is too much differences use 2 layers.hope this helps
non english language sorry this is my best

Not quite got that but thanxs for trying may be some one else can shed some light on what you are trying to explain.

It sounds to me as if your razor has a little warp in the middle of the blade.
If it's not much, the regular X-stroke will deal with it. It doesn't really matter that, on the affected spot, one side the bevel pane is small and on the opposite side wide. As long as both panes meet each other at the keenest possible line. In fact, you can't avoid that kind of warp to show up as uneven width in the bevel panes.
I always keep an eye on the honing water, running up the edge. If it doesn't run up the edge at the affected spot, then that part is really dull and/or not touching the hone. It's okay to drop the part that's already off the hone during the X-stroke by a very small amount. (Sort of the opposite of the rolling X on a smiling edge). If you watch the water running up the edge, with the intention of making it run up, you'll adjust your stroke almost automatically (I'm presuming that you hone single handedly).

Hope this helps,
Bart.

yes bart i do hone single handed
. and look have it as i do x pattern this part does hit the hone as the razor the razor comes down the hone because as the heal comes of my hone and then razor comes flat and the other side the heal is real out so i begin stroke with the heal this the second razor i have had with this same problem.I will always check for this from now on and not use any razor untill i am happy with it. I honed this with one layer of tape and then i took the tape of and rehoned to set egde againwich it has'nt realy helped as now i have a good edge but i kcan kind off see the begining of the taped bevel that run above my new bevel if you understand what i mean.it is a real shame as it is a nice razor i've put it flat on cd and i can see the problem if i push razor forward it keeps flat but then there is to mucc pressure being used.

I'm not sure I completely understand the problem, Gary.
The blade has a slight warp in the middle, right? A small high spot if it lays on one side, which becomes a low spot as you flip is over. Am I understanding that correctly?

About the tape issue: if the bevel is set with tape on the spine, than you need to complete the honing job with tape on the spine. If you choose to change the honing regime to tape-less, than you need to stay on a bevel-setting hone, till the new bevel is formed all the way till the outer edge.

Bart.

The width of a bevel is not that important. What is important is that there is a bevel for the full length of the blade and that the bevel goes all the way to the edge. If you have that then you are ok. You can use the Thumb Nail Test to tell you if the bevel is formed on both sides of the blade and for the full length of the blade.

If not then what Bud is suggesting just might work. On the side where the bevel is narrow place a piece of tape on the spine. The length of the tape should be as long as the narrow portion of the bevel. I would then add another layer of tape on both sides and reset the bevel. You might also try using 2 layers of tape.

If this is not clear let me know.
There is another option but that involves using a rounded edge/side of the hone and very, very light pressure.

Bud, Bart ...good call!

If I am honing a blade as you describe, I find that using the X pattern at a 45 degree angle on the stone going both ways, instead of the usual 90 degree angle,will get the entire edge on the stone as you do your stroke both ways.


Lynn

This where narrow hones are useful. if you have a single grit stone you can hone on the narrower side.

yes bart high spot one side low spot when i flip it over but if i lay the blade across my hone and only lay the toe end and middle and leave the edge heal part of the hone still keeping spine flat the middle and toe lay perfectly flat it is as if the heal when i slide that part back on to the hone the middle then lifts back of the hone its seems like the heal is causing the problem that is why as i hone and the heal leaves the hone the middle does make contact.