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Thread: Advice for killer edge on friodur

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    Senior Member KristofferBodvin's Avatar
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    Angry Advice for killer edge on friodur

    My Friodur shaves good after some seriously challenging honing sessions.I actually set a new bevel on it, and progressed from my norton 4000/8000 to my shapton 16k.I finished with chromium on cotton.This is my only stainless, and I'm aware of the extra work needed.But I have gotten superb results on many other razors with this progression.I have gone back and forth between chrom ox and 16k several times.I have also stropped the heck out of it.It just wount take that killer edge!!.I'm thinking mabe some diamond pastes.0,5? 0,25? never tried them... Would it be possible to go from shapton16k to 0,25, or should I also include the 0,5.?
    And what would be the best medium for it? Any good advice?

    Thanks Kristoffer.

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    Senior Member Kenrup's Avatar
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    Hi Kristoffer, Friodurs can be very frustrating. I have experiment with many of them that were sent to me for honing. If I had one that would not cooperate, I would start taping the spine. It seems like it an average of three or four layers of 3M 1700 electrical tape will give an angle that the blade likes. It has been my experience that the stainless steel blades tend to be softer then carbon steel blades. I would tape at the 4000 grit level then tape all the way through 12000, 16000, to 0.5µ to 0.25µ diamond paste on a leather bench strop. I would then remove the tape and strop on a horsehide hanging strop. If it looked good under the microscope after the last stropping, it has usually been a good durable edge. That only stainless steel I have had hold an edge as long as a carbon steel razor has been AT34. I do have a Dovo SS that I use at my gym that will also hold its edge for a longtime; however, it is an anomaly.

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    Senior Member KristofferBodvin's Avatar
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    Stainless softer than carbon?? I tought it was the opposite? The Friodur sure needs about twice the usual laps I normaly use. And three or four layers of tape all the way? Ok if you say so, I'll give it a try, you have a lot more honing exp. than me for sure.:-) seems alot tough....
    Thanks Ken

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    "Mister Nip n Tuck" ;) BigBubba's Avatar
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    I can only assume that Ken meant that the ideal angle of the bevel on a stainless blade is softer than the angle on a carbon blade.

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    Just one more lap... FloorPizza's Avatar
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    Hmmmm.... I also thought that stainless was harder, and more brittle than regular carbon steel.

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    Senior Member KristofferBodvin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigBubba View Post
    I can only assume that Ken meant that the ideal angle of the bevel on a stainless blade is softer than the angle on a carbon blade.
    Is there such a thing as a soft angle?

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    . Bill S's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KristofferBodvin View Post
    Is there such a thing as a soft angle?
    It's the opposite of a hard line.

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    At this point in time... gssixgun's Avatar
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    Kris:
    I have found that the Friodur like many other SS razor tend to like the high grits more in their combinations, I have referred to every type of razor having it's own honing combo that works for it in other threads... this is what I mean....

    Lets use some hypothetical numbers here for honing laps..
    (These numbers mean nothing in real life, they are only here to illustrate a point)

    Using yer progression after the bevel is set and sharp...

    Lets say you do a Carbon razor in a fairly even progression like
    4k - 30 laps
    8k - 30 laps
    16k - 20 laps

    On the SS you would push to the higher stuff
    Say more like
    4k - 20 laps
    8k - 40 laps
    16k - 30 laps

    The more razors and types of razor you hone the more you will notice how groups of razors will follow these combo's and as you see a new one you start putting them in these groups...

    Now if you add diamond paste, then add that in a progression too, .50 after the 16k and .25 last...... I would use diamond on either felt or leather, I personally feel it is to harsh for balsa....
    You have to up the amount of stropping after this on your linen and leather or the .25 will give you a harsh feel.....
    50 linen /100 leather should do the trick...

    Hope that is sorta clear
    Last edited by gssixgun; 01-22-2009 at 10:38 PM.
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    Senior Member KristofferBodvin's Avatar
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    Thanks Glenn. Would you use Chrom ox after the 0,25, for a smoother edge?

    Btw: You missed out on a great looking suredge the other day.Or did you?
    I know I did!! It got sniped!
    That was on top of the list you sent me
    Attached Images Attached Images  

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    At this point in time... gssixgun's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KristofferBodvin View Post
    Thanks Glenn. Would you use Chrom ox after the 0,25, for a smoother edge?

    Btw: You missed out on a great looking suredge the other day.Or did you?
    I know I did!! It got sniped!
    That was on top of the list you sent me
    Oh man that was a sweet one...

    Back on topic...
    As to using .50 Cr after the .25 daimond???
    Not automatically, I am one of the few people on here that actually likes .25 on my personal razors, some razors can handle it, other's can't if you look in today's SOTD you will find one that did not, the shave was rather harsh and when I go back at it tomorrow, I will do some .50 Cr laps then re-strop the 50/100 routine and try the shave again.... The CrOx should take the bite off that blade...

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