Thread: Chrome Ox - The Paste or The Powder

Originally Posted by Quick

?? how does this happen ?? CrOx is a very effective pigment. I'm wondering what you could suspend it in that would prevent it from staining things while still allowing it to do what it's intended for in this application.

That's bizarre to me as well. Mixing the powder with a light oil ends up making a very thin paint that IME has taken days to wear off my fingers.

Chris L

I have been using the liquid from Hand America and being water based it works really well. I put a few drops on my paddle strop, wet my finger with the kitchen faucet and spread evenly over the balsa. Water rinses off my finger easily. The paddle is dry in a couple hours but I have used before it drys and have had no problem.

bj

Originally Posted by Quick

?? how does this happen ?? CrOx is a very effective pigment. I'm wondering what you could suspend it in that would prevent it from staining things while still allowing it to do what it's intended for in this application.

Hello Quick. I have some tee shirts that have some green stains so keep away from material that will stain. It does rinse easily from hands or fingers since it is water based. I use a damp paper towel for easy cleanup of counter and sides of paddle.

bj

It's easy. it's mixed with a detergent. It conditions leather just fine, doesn't dry it out. When it's on your hands, it's basically green soap.

Originally Posted by Ryan82

Thanks guys, it's always good to get many perspectives as everyone has had different experiences using their product of choice. Has anyone tried the paste sold through SRD?

I just received it a few days ago. It comes in stick form. I haven't decided what I'm gonna put it on yet, though.

Sorry,about the power and liquid CrOx from Japaneseknifesharpening, mentioned above, can you use either on its own, can the powder be used on its own (or does it have to be made up into a paste?)?

Thanks

The powder can be used on its own. It's so fine that it rubs very easily into leather in a nice "self limiting" way. Meaning, a light tint is all that's needed for optimum results. The goal with chrome ox is NOT to slather or heavily apply it. For balsa, I do prefer mixing the powder with a light oil such as mineral oil. It soaks in a bit better. I don't "paint" the entire balsa surface but instead I "paint" a big "X" on the surface. The razors spread it around a bit more.

Chris L

Ben325e beat me to it, but yep! From japaneseknifesharpening.com:

Detergent based Liquid Chromium Oxide in a convenient squeeze applicator.
This is HandAmerican's "Original Formula" that they've been producing for many years. It's packed with so much chromium oxide that it could almost be considered a paste. Great to use on smooth leather either by itself or in combination with our pure dry chromium oxide powder.
Contains detergents for ease of cleaning from hands and clothes and also contains conditioners to help keep the leather pad supple.

And yup, the liquid can be used on its own, I like it much better than the powder.

How does Livi do to get that nice thick green finish on their stops then? 2mm thick coat?

Originally Posted by Stuggi

How does Livi do to get that nice thick green finish on their stops then? 2mm thick coat?

I've always wondered about that, because if you listen to the general advice, he's got too much on there!
...but he's a razor-making genius, so I don't know.
Maybe he uses a mix of liquid and dry chro-ox, like Dave does