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Thread: Low grit ??

  1. #1
    Grumpy old sod Whiskers's Avatar
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    Default Low grit ??

    Ive recently been trying to hone up this ebay beauty I scored about 6 months ago.

    It had a couple very small chips in the edge, so I decided to reset the bevel.

    Off of the 1000 grit paper, it was literally popping arm hairs. I was really psyched about this blade.

    Then, I went to the 4k ... then 8k ... then 12k.

    It seems that the darn thing was getting duller through the grit progression.

    After about 50 laps on the 12k, I tried to shave me arm hair and it worked well. The next step for me is to try and shave a small area on the cheek. Man, did I get alot of razor burn from just one swipe. I figure that this razor burn is telling me that the edge just isnt sharp enough.

    Strange ... but when I do a shave test fresh off of the1k grit, I dont get the burn that I do coming from the 12k. It feels smoother and sharper coming directly form the 1k grit.

    So, my question is ..
    I think this is due to my honing technique. It is happening now with a few razors I am trying to bring back to life... and not just the aforementioned ebay special.

    I thought I might be overhoning, so I tried the pyramid method. It worked, but the edge was sharp for about 1/2 of a shave. To me, an edge should last at least one shave before refreshing it on a higher grit stone.

    Is this a common occurance? What am I missing ?

  2. #2
    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    Have you looked at the edge with a loupe and/or tried the magic marker test? If it appears to get sharper when you go back down the grit size, you may be creating a wire edge that the lower grit is removing. You could try a few back-honing strokes on each new stone before proceeding with normal honing on it - helps to knock back any wire edge that may be forming.

    Are your stones all the same width? You might be varying the stroke to accomodate them.

    Regards,
    Neil.

  3. #3
    Senior Member blabbermouth hi_bud_gl's Avatar
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    Default hone

    Quote Originally Posted by Whiskers View Post

    After about 50 laps on the 12k, I tried to shave me arm hair and it worked well.

    This is not enough on 12 you will need to do at least 100-150 get something out of your chineese 12

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    Senior Member blabbermouth hi_bud_gl's Avatar
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    Default adding more

    Quote Originally Posted by Whiskers View Post

    Off of the 1000 grit paper, it was literally popping arm hairs. I was really psyched about this blade.

    Then, I went to the 4k ... then 8k ... then 12k.
    Quote Originally Posted by hi_bud_gl View Post
    This is not enough on 12 you will need to do at least 100-150 get something out of your chineese 12
    Progression is right
    Quote Originally Posted by Whiskers View Post
    I thought I might be overhoning, so I tried the pyramid method. It worked, but the edge was sharp for about 1/2 of a shave. To me, an edge should last at least one shave before refreshing it on a higher grit stone.
    this is a sign or the overhoning.
    Now what to do
    you will need to put a new bevel to your blade and start all over.
    the easiest and best way to start doing all this is buy a micriscope doesn't matter at least 30x which you can see the edge.
    start 1000 set bevel then go to 4k this stage is very important i mean it after this stage you should be able to cut hair on your arm.
    then 8k does more polishing and final stage 12 kyou need to do at least 100-150 strokes on it. strop and good luck
    Now all your stones should be flat =lapped.good luck don't be stranger have questions just ask
    Last edited by hi_bud_gl; 02-20-2009 at 01:29 PM. Reason: addding more

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    Senior Member blabbermouth JimmyHAD's Avatar
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    What Niel and Sam said. I know in the video series heavydutysg points out that most of the razors sent to him by members who couldn't bring them to shave readiness needed further work to adequately set the bevel.

    The magnification and the TNT help me determine that. The TPT follows as I progress up in grits. When you say shave arm hair, I assume you mean with the edge suspended above the skin ? If it is touching the skin it isn't a reliable test IMO.
    Be careful how you treat people on your way up, you may meet them again on your way back down.

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    Try shaving off the 8k. You should get a good sharp edge off the 8k that should be good enough to shave with. If not, there is no point going to the 12k. The 12k should just improve the edge, but you need a good edge at 8k first.

    Steven

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    Woo hoo! StraightRazorDave's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nerobot View Post
    Try shaving off the 8k. You should get a good sharp edge off the 8k that should be good enough to shave with. If not, there is no point going to the 12k. The 12k should just improve the edge, but you need a good edge at 8k first.

    Steven
    I second that.

  8. #8
    Grumpy old sod Whiskers's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimmyHAD View Post
    What Niel and Sam said. I know in the video series heavydutysg points out that most of the razors sent to him by members who couldn't bring them to shave readiness needed further work to adequately set the bevel.

    The magnification and the TNT help me determine that. The TPT follows as I progress up in grits. When you say shave arm hair, I assume you mean with the edge suspended above the skin ? If it is touching the skin it isn't a reliable test IMO.

    Since I am relatively new to honing .... I thought I set the bevel rather well. I ran quite a few consistent laps on 1000 grit paper. Some of the blades I am referring to earlier in this post ... well ... have at least few hundread laps (easily) on them on the 1k. I checked the new bevel to ensure that the new bevel extended the length of the blade.between this and the TPT, I dont see how else to 'check' a new bevel besides shaving with it.

    One razor I am struggling with , I've actually worn away a good 1/8 of an inch on the blade ... just on resetting the bevel. I have a hard time believing that the bevel isnt adequately set... well, with that one anyways. lol.

    I would rather not wear away a large portion of the blade to reset the bevel. Sometimes, it is necessary, sure.

    I usually lay the blade on the skin for a shave test. I dont suspend ... because when I do it doesnt work ... maybe the blade isnt sharp enough .... so to sharpen the blade, it's back to the stones. ugh.

    I've honestly hung my hat on the shave test. I figure if I can shave with it, thats all that really matters.

    Thanks for the replies, Guys.

    I will try some methods out this weekend and see how the edges turn out.

  9. #9
    Grumpy old sod Whiskers's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nerobot View Post
    Try shaving off the 8k. You should get a good sharp edge off the 8k that should be good enough to shave with. If not, there is no point going to the 12k. The 12k should just improve the edge, but you need a good edge at 8k first.

    Steven

    I have ....

    Seems the only good edge I can get is off of the 1k.



  10. #10
    At this point in time... gssixgun's Avatar
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    It sounds as though you are doing everything right except your doing to much of it to me...
    Taking off 1/8 of an inch of metal other than to fix a bad nick/chip is just too much honing...To me I would guess that you are getting an edge and then taking that edge back off there, Lynn has a saying on honing "Less is More" trust that....When you say 4k/8k I am assuming that this is a Norton??? If you are at arm hair sharpness coming off the 1k paper, then really I would go back to the basics and do a Standard pyramid and see what happens drop the 12k out of the equation and add 20 super smooth light 8k laps after the pyramid, strop 50 linen and 100 leather and maybe 20 laps on some .50Cr before the linen/leather and test shave....

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