Thread: Basic hone setup

I'm in need of a hone setup because the brand new razor I bought most likely wasn't shave ready. In time I also would like to restore some vintage razors, I already bought 3 of them.

I have done some reading about Nortons, coticules etc and different grit standards so I thought it would be best to get some advice before I start ordering stuff.

0,5 micron paste (for the back of my paddlestrop)
12k Chinese stone 8x2"
6k Rozsutec stone 6x2"
1k/3k Naniwa stone 7x2 3/16"

This would set me back about 65 euro ($89) shipping included.

If you want cheap, I'd go

DMT 1200 6"x2"
Coticule
Cro2 on a strop

$89 for what you just listed is increadibly cheap.

that's not a bad setup, you can definitely get good edges off of that.

"Basic" hone setup seems to be pretty subjective. But I would highly caution against attempting to restore razors "cheaply". You will either end up incredibly frustrated, or you will be buying a lot more equipment when it comes to the next thing you "need." Anyway just be honest with yourself and the time/money you want to put into this, and what you want to get out.

As for straight recommendations, I would suggest to get a 8"x3" DMT D8EE (8k) and a chromium paddle. Later you can decide if you want to try to find a lapped chinese 12k, or even try finding one up front as they are pretty cheap. From here if you can get really good results on new razors (and you know the edge you're aiming for) then you can move onto restoring old razors which may have significant problems such as frowns/smiles, twists, chips, cracks etc.

You can get great edges from a variety of equipment, so in some ways it'll depend more on preference than performance.

All are good choices, I have just about every hone out there, probably 40 or so, give or take, DMT are good, but I only use them for Knives and Hone Lapping, like the D8XX and D8C. Coticule are wonderful, but are not inexpensive. The chinese 12k is a good hone, but a bit dirty, it takes forever to use, you arm will go numb by the time you done. It can take 100 laps easy, maybe 50 with a slurry. Shapton are expensive, Escher are expensive and hard to find, the Norton's are good all around work horses and moderately priced.

I tell you what, I'm really liking these Naniwa Superstones. I started with the 12k, and liked the results so much, I bought the entire set. You need only do 15 laps on the 12k, it gives great feedback, easy to lap, holds up to use, all around great hone. I'd buy them if I was just starting out. Check the prices....All you would need is a good finisher, maybe some pastes....Lynn Abrams and Max both use them and are liking the results from what I hear....

If you don't already have a shave ready razor honed by one of our honemeisters, I really don't recommend getting into honing yet. You need at least one frame of reference of what a shave ready razor should feel like. IMHO, it would be exponentially harder to learn how to hone and shave at the same time. It will take alot of frustration and questioning as to whether or not it's your razor or your technique...

I HIGHLY recommend getting your first razor honed by a honemeister, and then pick up some extra razors, off ebay for example, to practice honing on.

You've all given me a lot of material to think about, thanks for that

In hindsight it would have been better if I ordered a restored vintage razor from a member here. Then I could have practised straight shaving and see whether I liked it enough to continue with it and in time purchase an extra strop for paste and later a high grit stone.

My thought at the time of ordering was that I shouldn't be saving money on my first razor and get a brand new razor of good quality. I did ask the manufacturer if the razor was shave ready and he said it was. I took the gamble and it turned out it wasn't. I could shave but not comfortably.

The good thing is I'm patient and willing to learn. I don't mind having to wait a few weeks before I have the stones and spend some days practising honing on an 'ebay' razor first, before I can get a good shave.

I'm more willing to spend $20 on an extra or better stone than to have my razor professionally honed. Except that I will know how sharp a razor should be and feel after honing I won't learn much from it. I still have to learn the best stropping and shaving technique so I would dull the razor in no time. I like to try it for myself and learn from all the mistakes I will make on the way

It may not the best way to go about things but there's a lot of documentation and videos at this forum which will guide me step for step. I see this as a marathon, not as a race.

From the replies I gather this budget setup would get the job done but if I would ever want to get serious about honing and restoring vintage razors there are some stones I should add both for a better edge and speed.

Originally Posted by Piet

You've all given me a lot of material to think about, thanks for that

In hindsight it would have been better if I ordered a restored vintage razor from a member here. Then I could have practised straight shaving and see whether I liked it enough to continue with it and in time purchase an extra strop for paste and later a high grit stone.

My thought at the time of ordering was that I shouldn't be saving money on my first razor and get a brand new razor of good quality. I did ask the manufacturer if the razor was shave ready and he said it was. I took the gamble and it turned out it wasn't. I could shave but not comfortably.

The good thing is I'm patient and willing to learn. I don't mind having to wait a few weeks before I have the stones and spend some days practising honing on an 'ebay' razor first, before I can get a good shave.

I'm more willing to spend $20 on an extra or better stone than to have my razor professionally honed. Except that I will know how sharp a razor should be and feel after honing I won't learn much from it. I still have to learn the best stropping and shaving technique so I would dull the razor in no time. I like to try it for myself and learn from all the mistakes I will make on the way

It may not the best way to go about things but there's a lot of documentation and videos at this forum which will guide me step for step. I see this as a marathon, not as a race.

From the replies I gather this budget setup would get the job done but if I would ever want to get serious about honing and restoring vintage razors there are some stones I should add both for a better edge and speed.

Where did you buy your razor? Are you sure it's not actually shave ready? The proper technique and feel of straight shaving takes a while to get the hang of.

I'd hate to see you hacking away at your face with poorly honed razors, not even knowing what to expect from the shave in the first place. It's going to be a struggle to learn both at once, but if you're determined, then all I can say is and keep us posted

Piet I guess the jump from the Rozsutek onto the 12 k is too big.
I'd get some kind of slate for that gap.
Dragon's tongue is not too expensive and quite allright, when its properly lapped.

Originally Posted by pjrage

Where did you buy your razor? Are you sure it's not actually shave ready? The proper technique and feel of straight shaving takes a while to get the hang of.

I'd hate to see you hacking away at your face with poorly honed razors, not even knowing what to expect from the shave in the first place. It's going to be a struggle to learn both at once, but if you're determined, then all I can say is and keep us posted

I bought the razor from NTS-Solingen, I've posted a picture here. As a test I shaved the back of my hand first, it didn't go effortless as I would expect from a well honed razor. I stropped a few times both canvas and leather in between shaving my face and I had a few decent passes but I was unable to remove my thick chin hair. However the leather is still very sturdy and I'm not sure if I got more than a few good strokes on it.

Considering I nicked both my ears and could tell afterwards where I started a few of my passes it may have been for the best the razor wasn't any sharper

Originally Posted by Olivia

Piet I guess the jump from the Rozsutek onto the 12 k is too big.
I'd get some kind of slate for that gap.
Dragon's tongue is not too expensive and quite allright, when its properly lapped.

It would seem the jump is too high but I was told by a whetstone collector that because of the different grit standards the Chinese 12k is more of an 8k stone compared to the Rozsutek. Although here at SRP I've seen people compare a 6-8k coticule to a 12k stone when used with water instead of slurry. So basically I don't know but I will look into dragon's tongue.

Edit:
These 2 links I found in another thread are helpful:
http://www.tzknives.com/razorbevels.html
http://www.tzknives.com/razoredges.html

Assuming a 6k Rozsutek is close to a 6-8k coticule with slurry I think the jump from a Rozsutek to a Chinese 12k with slurry is big but perhaps smaller than coticule with slurry to coticule with water.

Those stones which can be used with slurry and without are like combi stones, double value for the money