Thread: Ok, guys ...

I am really struggling with this honing bit.

I am using a norton 4/8K with a 12k chinese as a finish hone.

I set the bevel (when needed) on 1k sandpaper.

I've tried the pyramid and just completely excessive laps on the 4k, 8k, and 12k.

Still, my edges come out just so-so. I can shave with them, sure. But the real shaving seems to go on ATG with some removal on the WTG pass. Sure, it shaves .. with some tugging and some razor burn. My edges do not pass any sort of hair test, unless I place the blade on the skin and actually shave the arm/leg hair.


I know this is not an ordinary knife, but I've sharpened many knives before ( and shaved with them) and never had to put on 1/4 of the laps I am using on a medicore honed razor.

I know I am probably not the only one on this site with this problem. Heck, I've watched other members sell their gear over this very issue.

I know it takes a while to learn how to get a good edge ... but this isn't rocket science either. Good, light pressure for me means many more laps with out any sort of result to show for it along with wear to the blade.


How many blades have others destroyed before they got their edges to be 'one pass shave ready'?

I'm on about 7 and counting.


I've gone so far as to check to see if the edge is actually touching the stone... haha.

Everything seems to be working fine except the edge doesnt get sharp.

I feel like I am wasting my time sitting in front of these stones for 45 minutes per blade and not developing an edge I can shave with.


Actually, after 45 minutes, I usually stop honing the blade because I know I am wearing the blade excessively and not because of the edge being keen.

After these sessions, the edge(s) do not show any signs of overhoning whatsoever.

It is as if my mere touch of the razor dulls it.


Then, when I go and finally get an edge I can shave with, it lasts about 5-7 shaves before it becomes completely unusable.

Seriously ... WTF?


I do like shaving with the razor. I actually enjoy it when the blade is sharp. Spending hours just watching my razor become worn away isnt my idea of fun.

< / rant>

Originally Posted by Whiskers

My edges do not pass any sort of hair test, unless I place the blade on the skin and actually shave the arm/leg hair.
their gear over this very issue.





< / rant>

Thank you for letting us know above sentences. Makes a lot easier to help you. Your blade is NOT shave ready. What are you doing it hurting yourself.
the stones which you have you can definitely get your razor shave ready condition.
At first i have never used sandpaper and can't say anything about it.
I think if you start with 4 k and could set a bevel will take a little longer.
This is the most important start. you have to have bevel set first.
Some people says you will get hair pop up from your arm when you done with 4 k.
then you can move to 8k.
lastly 12k this will need at least 100-150 laps remember this is slow cutting stone. if you have chro2 will help too.
sign which you need to see is this.
Your blade will cut hair approximately 1 cm above the skin and when hair cuts it doesn't pop up it just falls down next to blade or on the blade. this means your blade is ready for shave.
As usually the best test will be shave test.
you shouldn't have any problem when you shave no pressure at all.
Lastly i don't know how long have you been shaving with straight but if you are never had any razor honed by people who knows what they are doing please do so. you can see that edge and compare your work to it.
Hope this helps.

I've had a blade honed by Lynn, oso I know what sharpness is acceptable to shave with.

I just cant get close to that sharpness with the stones I have.

I've tried just honing on the 4k (after cutting the bevel)to get the arm hair popping test. Literally, I've worn off about 1/3 of the blade trying to conduct this and it still hasnt happened.

I know that the 4k stone is abrasive, sure ... but to conduct the hair popping test I need to wear away a minor amount of the steel to get the edge.

Basically, I do laps on the 4k without anything to show for it except worn nubs that used to be razors.

What gives?

Maybe very hard steel, so you'd need a very soft stone like a King for the bevel.

This is going to likely take an exchange of a lot of questions and answers to get this sorted out. Some may seem patronizing, depending on your knowledge level but they will be asked with good intentions.

Since you know about the pyramids, you've done some reading on honing.
Have you watched any videos?

Are you aware of the difference between knife and razor sharpening? That is, keeping the spine down and level on the hone?

What is your basis for determining the need to set the bevel on 1K sandpaper?

Is it wet/dry sandpaper and are you using it wet?

Are your hones lapped?

Are you doing straight strokes or x-strokes?

Does ANY part of the blade get sharp?

Specifically what razors have you tried honing?

Do you have access to any means of magnification?

Are you taping the spine?

"I've gone so far as to check to see if the edge is actually touching the stone... haha." How did you do that?

Do you know about, and have you tried, the marker test?

Are you stropping?

Utopian asked a lot questions lets see answers first. 1 more do you use any pressure when you hone? if yes then don't put any pressure. we wait your answers.
Lastly be patient you will get there . we all learn and 1 day were worse then you are.

My recommendation, get a DMT 1200 for bevel setting. Your other stones are fine. I use them and get SR blades every time.

In my trials and tribulations, i found that if i did not do enough work at the bevel setting stage. I was in for a world of frustration.

And have very light consistent strokes at the norton 4k and beyond is very important.

If you are passing the marker test and TPT when setting the first bevels, I would suspect too much pressure on the finishing strokes. The marker test can also be used on your final 12k hone.

Originally Posted by Whiskers

I've tried just honing on the 4k (after cutting the bevel)to get the arm hair popping test. Literally, I've worn off about 1/3 of the blade trying to conduct this and it still hasnt happened.

This is why some of us say the hair-popping tests should not be given too much weight.

I've said before that I can't pass those tests even with super-sharp Feather DE blades. You simply can't assume that failing these tests proves a problem.

The thumb-nail test (at 4K) and thumb-pad test (beyond that) are better tests. The marker test is also great.