Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 20 of 20
  1. #11
    Senior Member kevint's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    1,875
    Thanked: 285

    Default

    I had certainly read about using soap/lather on a hone and let it go. "oh yeah mmm ok"


    Finally trying it I thought wow this is sweet. it really works!

    After further consideration and talking to my gurus I am no longer using it. I just don't want to risk contamination with substances that might affect the bond of my naturals, or otherwise be absorbed and detract from mother nature's intent when she engineered these marvels.

    For most man-made stones soap and baking soda are not recommended. On diamond plates, yes

  2. #12
    Senior Member blabbermouth JimmyHAD's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    32,564
    Thanked: 11042

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by kevint View Post
    I had certainly read about using soap/lather on a hone and let it go. "oh yeah mmm ok"


    Finally trying it I thought wow this is sweet. it really works!

    After further consideration and talking to my gurus I am no longer using it. I just don't want to risk contamination with substances that might affect the bond of my naturals, or otherwise be absorbed and detract from mother nature's intent when she engineered these marvels.

    For most man-made stones soap and baking soda are not recommended. On diamond plates, yes
    That is why I have been reluctant. I hate to use oil on stones recommended for that as well. Just makes me uncomfortable even if there is nothing wrong with it. As an aside I always got the shivers when dry honing but I am doing that on barber hones now. Got to stay open minded and try new stuff before I reject it out of hand. I think I will try the ls lather on one of my coticules and see what I think. Unless it is just exceptional in the results I probably won't make a habit of it. So far the water alone has been fine.
    Be careful how you treat people on your way up, you may meet them again on your way back down.

  3. #13
    The original Skolor and Gentileman. gugi's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    17,410
    Thanked: 3906
    Blog Entries
    1

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ben.mid View Post
    When i got mine, I actually read the instructions (which is unusual for me).
    and you are able to grow facial hair to shave?!? shame on you a disgrace our gender!

    i also clean the dmts with comet all the time - works wonders.

    as far as using soap with hones the naturals i have are non porous so it cannot affect them structurally at all. and of course, being lazy i don't have a soap and nosoap spray bottles, so pretty much all my hones get the soapy water.

  4. #14
    Senior Member sebell's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    San Francisco
    Posts
    928
    Thanked: 144

    Default

    Using dish soap certainly improves the feel of DMTs, but
    not enough for me to choose them over other hones at
    the 1000 grit level.

    - Scott

  5. #15
    Senior Member DogHair's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Illinois, USA
    Posts
    128
    Thanked: 24

    Default

    I refilled an empty bottle of dish soap with water. The residual soap was enough to do the job.

  6. #16
    BHAD cured Sticky's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Indiana
    Posts
    1,306
    Thanked: 230

    Default

    Lately, I've been using Ballistol instead of my usual dish soap. It mixes well with the water and is pretty slick. They both seem give a nice, yet different, feel to the honing stroke.

  7. #17
    yami no kami yuzuha's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Nebraska
    Posts
    36
    Thanked: 12

    Default

    Well, I wouldn't try it on my awase, but I do use windex (the ammonia variety, DEFINITELY NOT the vinegar type) on various synthetic stones and diamond plates... iron does not rust in alkaline environments so the ammonia acts as a rust inhibitor as well as the soap acting as a lube / surficant.

    Sword polishers usually add sodium carbonate (washing soda) to the water in their stone buckets to accomplish the same end so while I am questionable about using bicarbonate, I have soaked my aoto and awase in washing soda.

  8. #18
    Senior Member kevint's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    1,875
    Thanked: 285

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by yuzuha View Post
    Well, I wouldn't try it on my awase, but I do use windex (the ammonia variety, DEFINITELY NOT the vinegar type) on various synthetic stones and diamond plates... iron does not rust in alkaline environments so the ammonia acts as a rust inhibitor as well as the soap acting as a lube / surficant.

    Sword polishers usually add sodium carbonate (washing soda) to the water in their stone buckets to accomplish the same end so while I am questionable about using bicarbonate, I have soaked my aoto and awase in washing soda.
    I understand the need for soda, and aoto can sometimes surely need some soaking. But which ones and why soak awase?

    When needed I do use baking soda. What makes you skeptical? I am scared now

    Even the stuff that Namikawa sells is not recommended for synthetics

    I think even the hardest awase toishi is porous to some degree. There are probably plenty of vintage coticules out there that saw a long use with lather, maybe it did not harm them or maybe they would work better without; who knows?

  9. #19
    Senior Member blabbermouth JimmyHAD's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    32,564
    Thanked: 11042

    Default

    I like to treat my stones the way I treat my innards. Cool clear water.
    Be careful how you treat people on your way up, you may meet them again on your way back down.

  10. #20
    yami no kami yuzuha's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Nebraska
    Posts
    36
    Thanked: 12

    Default

    Oh, I don't think the bicarb would hurt anything... after all, they use it to buffer aspirin and as a stomach acid tablet. I just don't remember what pH level a small amount would give you. If it works for you, then maybe it is a viable alternative.

    Synthetics vary... Shapton's resin stones absorb water and become soft and rubbery if you soak them for very long (half hour or more usually) and then you have to lap them to get their cutting power back. Not sure what sodium carbonate would do to a magnesia stone (the ones that are like abrasive in plaster of paris). Wouldn't hurt the baked clay stones (like most King or other brands that resemble the stuff flower pots are made of). Maybe it isn't so much not recommendinding the sodium carbonate as not recommending the soaking of magnesia and resin stones?

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •