Results 41 to 50 of 56
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09-17-2009, 09:38 PM #41
- Join Date
- Feb 2008
- Posts
- 1,588
Thanked: 286i do dilucot method and add cro and somtimes 10 on .5 dp followed by 15 crox it does make nice differance try it
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09-18-2009, 02:13 AM #42
I gave my TI some crox stropping after the stone as it's a recalcitrant blade--no matter what hone you use, it always needs a little pasting to really get there. Always gets there eventually (with some fooling around), though.
I gave my Wapi a quickie as well for more glide & sharpness, although it was plenty shave-ready (barbed-wire-for-a-beard talking here) right off the stone.
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09-20-2009, 08:23 PM #43
- Join Date
- Jan 2008
- Location
- Belgium
- Posts
- 1,872
Thanked: 1212Sounds like you did very well.
The "La Petite Blanche" Coticules are fast and easy to work with and they give excellent results. They used to say about honing pits that had access to that particular, very narrow layer, that the profit of the pit was in that layer. They were that highly regarded. But the others work just as nice, may it be that they take a few laps more.
Bart
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09-21-2009, 01:16 AM #44
- Join Date
- Apr 2006
- Posts
- 246
Thanked: 55Agreed most whole heartedly. Even after doing the thumb NAIL test TWICE right after the stone then stropping directly after the thumb nail test you can pass the HHT off a coticule. And the test can be passed no matter which direction the root is: hanging down or pointing up - the blade will cut both ways.
Preferring a hone is a personal thing and for those of us that love these coticules they can be a real joy to learn and experiment with. There are many roads to Rome, I just like this one particularly well.
Regards,
EL
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09-21-2009, 09:05 PM #45
Once you gain some confidence, it is fun to experiment up and down with different finishing stones to refine the bevel, polish and really set a fine fine edge. The coticule with slurry is great with a slurry in the final set and polish, with water only or damp for a great edge. Natural Japanese stones can also impart some great edges, but they vary greatly in hardness. I like to use one to polish and then I go back to the coticule.
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09-22-2009, 05:48 AM #46
I really like finishing on lather after water. I've quit using it dry as I don't get much feedback that way. I agree w/ Bart about it being like dry sexual intercourse!Not that fun.
I'm also playing around w/ using a bit of pressure on water after coming off the slurry (similar to when starting out on slurry), then backing off to normal pressure as soon as I feel the edge start to bite. Feedback is great. From there, light->ultra-light laps on water & 10-20 ultra light laps on lather to finish. Did the trick for a nice Sheffield wedge I got @ an antique store the other day. It atea 2-day beard (the hardest for me) even after I'd applied way too much pre-shave oil--to the detriment of the shave.
They also had a Dubl Duck, but the scales touched the blade enough to make it sing when opened. The blade was straight, though.
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The Following User Says Thank You to PA23-250 For This Useful Post:
Bart (09-22-2009)
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09-22-2009, 09:15 AM #47
- Join Date
- Jun 2008
- Posts
- 24
Thanked: 1PA23-250 - I am after a 8 x 3 coticule as well. Would you mind telling me where you sourced yours from? Thanks mate.
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09-22-2009, 04:59 PM #48
If I may take a few steps left of the topic of this thread for a moment...
Warped scales are rather notorious on Dubl Ducks I believe. Sometimes you can straighten them out with a bit of gentle heat and cautious persuasion. Of course you can always re-scale a blade in good shape (well, I suppose you could re-scale a blade in awful shape too, but what would be the point). So, you may want to go back and get that Duck. Dubl Ducks in good shape should never be allowed to languish and an antique shop.
We now return to your regularly scheduled topic - the coticule I believe.
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09-22-2009, 06:19 PM #49
Blade13: I got mine from Vintage Blades. They're all select grade, med-soft, hand selected by Rob @ the quarry for use on razors.
The Duck blade was straight w/ no corrosion @ all--they were asking $70 for it. Is that price OK, or should I try to talk them down a bit? (It's a Goldedge, FYI)
Now back to these Belgians!
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09-22-2009, 07:49 PM #50
$70. for a Goldedge, depending on hone wear etc., may not be bad IMO, but I would certainly try to bargain them down on the price. You may want to raise this as a separate topic so this thread doesn't get sidetracked. That way folks with more experience than I with Ducks can chime in.
In an effort to make this post relevant to this thread... I have a new coticule waiting for me on my doorstep (also from Vintage Blades) that I intend to use to tune up my DD Goldedge. Info in this thread (and others) contributed to my decision to buy one.