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Thread: Bevel Setting
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09-09-2009, 03:40 AM #21
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09-09-2009, 03:41 AM #22
I wouldn't trust that friend if I were you, he's off by a factor of roughly 40.
A micron is short for a micrometer, so it's one millionth of a meter.
1inch = 0.0254meters
BTW you can do math and conversions on Google too. Type
'1micron in inches' or '1micron in meters' or '1meter in microns'
or whatever number you want for that matter.
Since I have a browser with a google bar opened all the time I usually do quick calculations there. It's faster than typing bc -l or octave...
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09-09-2009, 04:25 AM #23Be careful how you treat people on your way up, you may meet them again on your way back down.
09-09-2009, 08:46 AM
#24
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To hi_bud_gl
[QUOTE=hi_bud_gl;449552]This is all mix up.
Why to make so difficult simple stuff?
1k has larger particles then 4 k.
Now when you move your blade against larger particles , they will remove more metal in larger size and will leave larger scratches.
(Now we do assume they are made with same company and join with same glue etc) above statement should be correct.
Now can you set bevel with 4k of course you can i am sure you can set bevel with AN ESCHER but questions is how long it will take and how much stone you will loose.
1k advisable for straight razor because you do remove enough metal which easy set the bevel . Can you use 325 yes but result you are removing unnecessary metal. if you are sharpening axis i am sure i will say please go head use 100 grit stone.
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I have been relying on my DMT 8c which is 325 grit marked on the box. It very definitely does remove steel at a good clip. My question to hi_bud_gl is , should I slow down and go with the Norton 1000 or am I OK with the DMT 8c. I try to set the proper bevel before I polish the edge. I always hope that I am not removing too much steel (especially with my Bismarck). It seems that some honesters have a somewhat better handle on this situation than I do. I spent too many years with just a 3 line Swaty hone and a leather strop. All this modern stuff basically confuses me but I keep buying Coticules, Shaptons, Nakayamas and Naniwas just the same.
I feel inadequate because after all these years I feel I should be more accomplished at honing than I am. I still refuse to be discouraged.
Half of my razors shave great and the other half still need that magic touch. I am turning my attention to multi / micro bevels. In case you never hear from me again, that's where I'll be....
Jerry
~~~
JERRY
OOOPS! Pass the styptic please.
09-09-2009, 10:08 AM
#25
09-09-2009, 10:34 AM
#26
LOL ... Laconic but to the point
The white gleam of swords, not the black ink of books, clears doubts and uncertainties and bleak outlooks.
09-09-2009, 12:21 PM
#27
Interesting conversations on grit comparisons but in reference to this thread's original question I believe some of you are trying to split an atom.
To reply to the original question: Yes you can set a bevel on the 4k. As Glen mentioned early in this thread setting a new bevel on a new razor will probably take less time than restoring a bevel on a used razor. Your technique, hardness of the steel and width of the bevel will determine the time difference. In reference to your question none of this will really matter. As with most things in life time equals money. You can spend the money to buy a 1k and possibly save some time or you can save your money and take longer on the 4k. As you are apparently relatively new to honing I would suggest using the 4k for several reasons. 1) It will take longer to cause damage to your blade if your technique is off. 2) If you pay attention you will be able to notice where you may stray off course in your technique. 3) The only way to get good at honing is to do a bunch of it. The extra time spent on the 4k will give you experience honing, if you pay attention. I'm sure there are more reasons but this is a good start. I'm sure you will find more as you go along.
Good luck!
p.s. remember to use the marker test as the first step in setting your bevel. Check the WIKI for details if you don't know what I am talking about. It will help you determine if your blade is warped and what stroke to use before removing a lot of metal.
Last edited by Joed; 09-09-2009 at 05:53 PM.
“If you always do what you always did, you will always get what you always got.” (A. Einstein)
09-09-2009, 01:09 PM
#28
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+1 with Joed very very good point...
09-09-2009, 02:00 PM
#29
accidentally dbl posted
Last edited by bevansmw; 09-09-2009 at 02:02 PM.
09-09-2009, 02:01 PM
#30
Here's the metric scale to the right of the decimal point, used for a ton of stuff. There is a different name for each three 0's to the right of decimal with the exception of the first three where you have deci- (.0) first digit, centi- (.00) second digit and milli- (.000) third digit. you could refer to .056 as 5.6 centi- or 56 milli- or .56 deci-. Most commonly in this example you would see milli, such as 56milliamps or 56mA.
.0 (deci-)
.00 (centi-)
.000 (milli-)
.000000 (micro-)
.000000000 (nano-)
.000000000000 (pico-)
For example 1 micrometer is equal to .000001 meters.
Also 1 millimeter is equal to .001 meters.
On the left side you may be more familiar with...
1,000 (kilo-)
1,000,000 (mega-)
1,000,000,000 (giga-)
1,000,000,000,000 (tera-)
Maybe that helps clear a little up? Micron = micrometer
Last edited by bevansmw; 09-09-2009 at 02:08 PM.
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