Thread: using norton 8k dry

so any one done it

what i have found is that if you let the stone dry out a bit while honing that it starts to load and poilish much better


so now when i hone i run from DMT1200 norton 4/8k wet then chosara 10k wet then back down to dry norton 8K


the edge seems to get to a much higher level off the dry hone (doesnt work on dry10k tho)

Yes for a few years now, but I have always told people to use it for the last 10-20 strokes as it "goes dry" those very last strokes you wet the stone and then push most of the water off and start honing very, very, perfectly, and very, very, slowly, and let the stone dry as you hone, about 10-20 laps and the stone is almost dry and your done, it does get the max out of the N8k....

I'm surprised that you're going to the 8k Norton after the Chosera 10k. Wet or dry I had heard that the very pricey Chosera 10k was the ne plus ultra of synthetic hones ? I remember Glen suggesting the above technique but haven't tried it yet. I have a hard time dry honing other than a few strokes on a Swaty. Personal prejudice.

well then this pic will help you see why i back back to the N8k dry

i did the whole edge 8K dry then came back over it as a simular angle to make sure i caught all the scratches in the same light with the 10k wet

the pics are firts at 60x and then at200x
i do hoever love the way the 10k works and feels (i want to try it one a SS blade )

oops its 200x below not 2000x

I have tried this as well and have never been a fan of dry. I simply find the shaving results are better for me when I use a thin spray of water. I have also tried the Coticule, Escher and Japanese Naturals dry and preferred water. Some folks over the years have honed on some stones dry and liked them.

You should like the Chosera 10K on all your razors including SS.

Have fun,

Lynn

If you are loading your home with metal you are burnishing the bevel. This does not do anything for the edge and may take away from the sharpness as you are rolling the edge up ever so slightly. It can also lead to microchips. There are better ways to polish the scratches off the bevel w/o detracting from the sharpness and improve the keenness such as pastes. Whether it is worth the extra bother is up to you, the hones available and your honing skills.

Good luck!

i dont see it so much as loading the stone with steel but more of braking down some of the abrasive and letting it fill in the low spots as the hone drys

sure i could let it dry and hone till the stone was gray with steel but i dont

i have seen posts of using the slurry of other high ends stones as a paste on newsprint and what not and how it acts finer then the hone it came from cause it was par way broke down

It would seem to me that you would risk putting tiny chips in the very edge without any/enough water/lubricant. JMO

Coticule slurry on synthetic stones is fun too. IIRC I first saw JoeD do it and then tried it myself. It seems to prevent stones from loadins as quickly, so I suspect the slurry gets into the low spots on the surface (and is eventually washed off or out). And since the Coti is finer, it may help produce a finer scratch pattern too. Same idea as a very fine nagura on a Japanese hone, as far as I can tell.

bringing up slurry and hearing about possible edge chips
i neve could under stand how slurry being infront of the edge makes it sharper after all the grit is running into the edge of the blade when you sharpen with grit floating