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Thread: Using a Norton 1000
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11-16-2005, 07:56 PM #11
Originally Posted by ForestryProf
The tape does change the angle, but this is only roughing out the edge. When you get to the 4K to finish it the angle will be restored. In other words, you'll be grinding it back down to the right angle.
Remember, this is only for extreme cases when a lot of material is being removed. In most cases, you can work normally on the 4K, or use circular strokes to remove material faster.
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11-17-2005, 04:16 AM #12
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Thanked: 2209Originally Posted by ForestryProf
I use duct tape although any tape will do. Just watch how fast the hone wears thru on the spine.
It does not seem to gum up the hone.
No special technique.
The bevel is corrected on the 4000 hone with about 15 laps.
Hope this helps,Randolph Tuttle, a SRP Mentor for residents of Minnesota & western Wisconsin
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11-17-2005, 02:20 PM #13
Thanks Joe and Randy,
I've got an ebay No 1 special Double Duck that is in serious need of truing up and nick removal. I'll give the tape a try on my white Arkansas to see if I can get this thing into shape. It's more for practice than anything else. I figure if I can resurect this blade, I can work on just about anything! Wish me luck, I'll try to post some pictures.
Ed
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11-17-2005, 02:39 PM #14
Originally Posted by ForestryProf
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11-17-2005, 03:06 PM #15
Arkansas stones
It is my understanding (and it FEELS like this is indeed the case) that my White Arkansas is a 1200 grit stone and my Black Arkansas is a 4000 grit. Both are oil stones and both MUCH slower cutting than any of my waterstones. Before buying my Norton 4/8K, these were the finest stones I owned and only used the Black to polish plane irons, chisels, and kitchen knives (after sharpening was pretty well complete). Now they've been relegated back to the woodshop--except when I need to aggressively shape an edge.
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11-17-2005, 03:29 PM #16
Originally Posted by ForestryProf