Thread: Using a Norton 1000

I just purchased a Norton 1000 3" stone. I have a razor that it taking me way too long to get shart on the 4KX8K. I believe I understand that I don't want to spend too much time on it but in terms of the pyramid scheme what should I look for before moving back to the 4K?

If I am attempting to rebuild the bevel, do I keep the razor flat like I do on the 4K or do I need to hold it differently?

jmsbcknr

Originally Posted by jmsbcknr

I just purchased a Norton 1000 3" stone. I have a razor that it taking me way too long to get shart on the 4KX8K. I believe I understand that I don't want to spend too much time on it but in terms of the pyramid scheme what should I look for before moving back to the 4K?

If I am attempting to rebuild the bevel, do I keep the razor flat like I do on the 4K or do I need to hold it differently?

jmsbcknr

I have the same stone. I've only had to use it once thus far. I think the only reason why you would need a stone that course is if you were trying to get serious nicks out of the blade, or trying to straighten the edge. If you have a microscope, you can see the nicks easily. In my limited experience, some razors simply take longer to sharpen. Tenacity will be your ally for those

Hi,

the 1k stone is far too rough to use it to really sharpen your razor. In so far it does not fit into any pyramid scheme.

I also use a 1k stone, but only for re-establishing the bevel from scratch. This only until the bevel is there, from then on I use only the 4k/8k stone (and pasted strops afterwards). And yes, the razor is always flat on the stone, independent of the grit-size.

Please note that the 1k stone really is only suited for this purpose and has to be used carefully, its quite easy to ruin a nice razor with it. Plus you won't even get near shaving sharpness with it.

Sorry to say, but speed in honing comes by experience only - and even then honing is not an exercise in speed but an exercise in dexterity and patience.

-Axel-

Well put

Originally Posted by jmsbcknr

I just purchased a Norton 1000 3" stone. I have a razor that it taking me way too long to get shart on the 4KX8K. I believe I understand that I don't want to spend too much time on it but in terms of the pyramid scheme what should I look for before moving back to the 4K?

If I am attempting to rebuild the bevel, do I keep the razor flat like I do on the 4K or do I need to hold it differently?

jmsbcknr

The 1K is used where you need to remove a lot of material to establish a new edge. You might want to ptotect the razor's spine by putting tape on it that continues down the sides to cover the area where the spine touches the stone.

What you're trying to do is set up an edge that looks even to the eye. When you're done, remove the tape and go to the 4K stone.

Read about the thumbnail test at classicshaving.com (the honing section under "how to..and why). That test will tell you whether you need more time on the 4K, are ready to move on, or have overhoned.

You move on to the 8K to polish the edge after you have completely set it up on th 4K.

Originally Posted by jmsbcknr

I just purchased a Norton 1000 3" stone. I have a razor that it taking me way too long to get shart on the 4KX8K. I believe I understand that I don't want to spend too much time on it but in terms of the pyramid scheme what should I look for before moving back to the 4K?
If I am attempting to rebuild the bevel, do I keep the razor flat like I do on the 4K or do I need to hold it differently?
jmsbcknr

You might find the microscope thread interesting. I posted some pictures of an edge through various processes. One of them was going down to the 1k stone which was ultimately what it took to get a smooth edge.

http://straightrazorpalace.com2/showthread.php?t=4242

Originally Posted by jmsbcknr

I just purchased a Norton 1000 3" stone. I have a razor that it taking me way too long to get shart on the 4KX8K. I believe I understand that I don't want to spend too much time on it but in terms of the pyramid scheme what should I look for before moving back to the 4K?

If I am attempting to rebuild the bevel, do I keep the razor flat like I do on the 4K or do I need to hold it differently?

jmsbcknr

First do a thumbnail test to establish a base for comparison. Put tape on the spine as suggested.Keeping the razor flat on the hone, as normal, and with moderate pressure, 2-3 lbs, hone until the nicks are gone, the damaged bevel is removed and it looks uniform in color, and it passes the thumbnail test. Then remove the tape.

Then move on to the 4000/8000 hones using an aggressive sequence starting at 15/5, 10/5,5/5,3/5,1/5,1/5,1/5. Use 1-2 lbs pressure. Perform the thumb test (not thumbnail) to establish a base for comparison.The reason for the aggressive sequence is that the tape has made the bevel slightly "off" and it needs to be corrected. Now perform the thumb test again and the HHT.

The next sequence if needed should start at 10/5. etc.
The third sequence, if needed, should start at 5/5, etc.
You get the idea now.

Let us know how it goes,

Originally Posted by randydance062449

First do a thumbnail test to establish a base for comparison. Put tape on the spine as suggested.Keeping the razor flat on the hone, as normal, and with moderate pressure, 2-3 lbs, hone until the nicks are gone, the damaged bevel is removed and it looks uniform in color, and it passes the thumbnail test. Then remove the tape.

If you have a lot of material to remove and would like the !K to remove material faster, you can align the blade with the length of the hone and hone circles, clockwise on one side of the blade and counterclockwise on the other. At this stage, it's not necessary to alternate swipes, for example you could do 10 on a side.

A 1K is a rough stone. I wouldn't expect to pass the thumbnail test coming off of it. It would be good enough if you can see an even edge formed and the edge digs into the nail just a little (doesn't just slide over the nail) and doesn't exhibit bumps as you slide the razor over the nail..

Originally Posted by Joe Lerch

The 1K is used where you need to remove a lot of material to establish a new edge. You might want to ptotect the razor's spine by putting tape on it that continues down the sides to cover the area where the spine touches the stone.

What you're trying to do is set up an edge that looks even to the eye. When you're done, remove the tape and go to the 4K stone.

Read about the thumbnail test at classicshaving.com (the honing section under "how to..and why). That test will tell you whether you need more time on the 4K, are ready to move on, or have overhoned.

You move on to the 8K to polish the edge after you have completely set it up on th 4K.

Joe,
What kind of tape do you use/suggest? Masking, electrical, celophane etc...? Any problem with the abraded tape gumming up the stone? Do you change technique at all while recreating the edge with the spine protected? Finally, I'm assuming the miniscule change in the bevel angle caused by lifting the spine off of the stone by the additional width of the tape is too small to be of any practical difference?

Enquiring minds want to know.

Originally Posted by ForestryProf

Joe,
What kind of tape do you use/suggest? Masking, electrical, celophane etc...? Any problem with the abraded tape gumming up the stone? Do you change technique at all while recreating the edge with the spine protected? Finally, I'm assuming the miniscule change in the bevel angle caused by lifting the spine off of the stone by the additional width of the tape is too small to be of any practical difference?

Enquiring minds want to know.

I've used a thin strip of electrical tape cut with scissors with no adverse effects, for what it's worth.