Thread: Using a Norton 1000

I just purchased a Norton 1000 3" stone. I have a razor that it taking me way too long to get shart on the 4KX8K. I believe I understand that I don't want to spend too much time on it but in terms of the pyramid scheme what should I look for before moving back to the 4K?

If I am attempting to rebuild the bevel, do I keep the razor flat like I do on the 4K or do I need to hold it differently?

jmsbcknr

Originally Posted by jmsbcknr

I just purchased a Norton 1000 3" stone. I have a razor that it taking me way too long to get shart on the 4KX8K. I believe I understand that I don't want to spend too much time on it but in terms of the pyramid scheme what should I look for before moving back to the 4K?

If I am attempting to rebuild the bevel, do I keep the razor flat like I do on the 4K or do I need to hold it differently?

jmsbcknr

I have the same stone. I've only had to use it once thus far. I think the only reason why you would need a stone that course is if you were trying to get serious nicks out of the blade, or trying to straighten the edge. If you have a microscope, you can see the nicks easily. In my limited experience, some razors simply take longer to sharpen. Tenacity will be your ally for those

Hi,

the 1k stone is far too rough to use it to really sharpen your razor. In so far it does not fit into any pyramid scheme.

I also use a 1k stone, but only for re-establishing the bevel from scratch. This only until the bevel is there, from then on I use only the 4k/8k stone (and pasted strops afterwards). And yes, the razor is always flat on the stone, independent of the grit-size.

Please note that the 1k stone really is only suited for this purpose and has to be used carefully, its quite easy to ruin a nice razor with it. Plus you won't even get near shaving sharpness with it.

Sorry to say, but speed in honing comes by experience only - and even then honing is not an exercise in speed but an exercise in dexterity and patience.

-Axel-

Well put

Originally Posted by jmsbcknr

I just purchased a Norton 1000 3" stone. I have a razor that it taking me way too long to get shart on the 4KX8K. I believe I understand that I don't want to spend too much time on it but in terms of the pyramid scheme what should I look for before moving back to the 4K?

If I am attempting to rebuild the bevel, do I keep the razor flat like I do on the 4K or do I need to hold it differently?

jmsbcknr

The 1K is used where you need to remove a lot of material to establish a new edge. You might want to ptotect the razor's spine by putting tape on it that continues down the sides to cover the area where the spine touches the stone.

What you're trying to do is set up an edge that looks even to the eye. When you're done, remove the tape and go to the 4K stone.

Read about the thumbnail test at classicshaving.com (the honing section under "how to..and why). That test will tell you whether you need more time on the 4K, are ready to move on, or have overhoned.

You move on to the 8K to polish the edge after you have completely set it up on th 4K.

Originally Posted by Joe Lerch

The 1K is used where you need to remove a lot of material to establish a new edge. You might want to ptotect the razor's spine by putting tape on it that continues down the sides to cover the area where the spine touches the stone.

What you're trying to do is set up an edge that looks even to the eye. When you're done, remove the tape and go to the 4K stone.

Read about the thumbnail test at classicshaving.com (the honing section under "how to..and why). That test will tell you whether you need more time on the 4K, are ready to move on, or have overhoned.

You move on to the 8K to polish the edge after you have completely set it up on th 4K.

Joe,
What kind of tape do you use/suggest? Masking, electrical, celophane etc...? Any problem with the abraded tape gumming up the stone? Do you change technique at all while recreating the edge with the spine protected? Finally, I'm assuming the miniscule change in the bevel angle caused by lifting the spine off of the stone by the additional width of the tape is too small to be of any practical difference?

Enquiring minds want to know.

Originally Posted by ForestryProf

Joe,
What kind of tape do you use/suggest? Masking, electrical, celophane etc...? Any problem with the abraded tape gumming up the stone? Do you change technique at all while recreating the edge with the spine protected? Finally, I'm assuming the miniscule change in the bevel angle caused by lifting the spine off of the stone by the additional width of the tape is too small to be of any practical difference?

Enquiring minds want to know.

I've used a thin strip of electrical tape cut with scissors with no adverse effects, for what it's worth.

Originally Posted by ForestryProf

Joe,
What kind of tape do you use/suggest? Masking, electrical, celophane etc...? Any problem with the abraded tape gumming up the stone? Do you change technique at all while recreating the edge with the spine protected? Finally, I'm assuming the miniscule change in the bevel angle caused by lifting the spine off of the stone by the additional width of the tape is too small to be of any practical difference?

I use the plastic type of electrical tape, it's thinner. Just hone normally, the tape has never caused me a problem.

The tape does change the angle, but this is only roughing out the edge. When you get to the 4K to finish it the angle will be restored. In other words, you'll be grinding it back down to the right angle.

Remember, this is only for extreme cases when a lot of material is being removed. In most cases, you can work normally on the 4K, or use circular strokes to remove material faster.

Originally Posted by ForestryProf

Joe,
What kind of tape do you use/suggest? Masking, electrical, celophane etc...? Any problem with the abraded tape gumming up the stone? Do you change technique at all while recreating the edge with the spine protected? Finally, I'm assuming the miniscule change in the bevel angle caused by lifting the spine off of the stone by the additional width of the tape is too small to be of any practical difference?

Enquiring minds want to know.

Hello Prof,

I use duct tape although any tape will do. Just watch how fast the hone wears thru on the spine.
It does not seem to gum up the hone.
No special technique.
The bevel is corrected on the 4000 hone with about 15 laps.

Hope this helps,

Thanks Joe and Randy,
I've got an ebay No 1 special Double Duck that is in serious need of truing up and nick removal. I'll give the tape a try on my white Arkansas to see if I can get this thing into shape. It's more for practice than anything else. I figure if I can resurect this blade, I can work on just about anything! Wish me luck, I'll try to post some pictures.
Ed