Quote Originally Posted by JimmyHAD View Post
Personally I pay no particular attention to the scratches. I set the bevel until it passes the TNT and do 10 x strokes for good measure. Then I do the 4 /8 pyramid ...... after the honing is completed on the 8k. I might use a TPT but lately I'll just strop and shave. More often than not that is enough. ............
Jimmy,
I was trying to leave scratches for strength. I have had my first scary edge hold up about 5 shaves and then start pulling. Thanks for that description of your process. I haven't had luck with the pyramid.... Now I know why. It needs more steps that I was skipping. Will have to try that again.

Quote Originally Posted by Lt.Arclight View Post
.......... Your finish stone should be up to the task.ATG can be challenging-depending on your beard.......... I have found .25 dp to create a very harsh edge.............For me to go ATG, I need a sharp and SMOOTH edge. You really shouldn't need paste at all.You seem to be on the right track. Good Luck.
Guess I should lay off the 1/4 micron paste. Was trying to create an edge that will easily cut ATG. My current blades are close but not comfortable. Have had more irritation this week then in the recent past.

Quote Originally Posted by AFDavis11 View Post
Remove every last low grit scratch. Your missing some key ideas, but I can't put my finger on what they are just from your initial post. I can sense that they are there in your mind though

.......... More polishing, with either no pressure or negative pressure is called for.

.......... When you are honing think of polishing the edge to a mirror like finish, using no pressure, then stropping the edge in a light, practically dainty stroke on the strop.

........You'll probably discount my post as silliness now, but consider some of the cognitive ideas about honing and stropping that I am trying to communicate. Its a gentle, patient pastime. Honing is a practical skill that requires concentration and precision, much like flytying I suppose. I'm pretty certain that stropping and fly casting are very similar too. Ever see someone who thought they could force a cast? It doesn't work very well.
Alan,

Thanks for the response here. I actually have almost PMed you several times. Your advice here>>>http://straightrazorpalace.com/honing/5164-my-honing.html is what got my head going. Now your advice here has me confused. I get my block plane blades to a mirror finish with diamond paste and that makes the best cutting edge. We want the finest and straightest edge possible for those fine shavings of bamboo. I know the concepts are in my head from my other hobbies but I haven't got all this figured out here. I sat down earlier and started a blade that I just couldn't get to shave. Now it is popping arm hair after the 4k stone It is coming fairly easy for me... Just don't have it all together.

When flyfishing, I don't force my cast. Actually it won't work at all with the bamboo that I enjoy fishing. I have the light touch down. Actually I have had to add pressure back to my process. I was trying to be TOO light on the higher grit stones and the balsa hones and now it is working better for me.

My biggest problem at the moment is keeping the edge from see-sawing from heel to toe as I bring it down the hone. Maybe this will help me.... Where is the concentration of contact at? Seems like it would be better to have it along the heel edge of the stone. Otherwise the heel is off the stone before it gets much honing when using the X stroke.

Actually that brings me to another question> Why the X stroke? Seems like the toe gets all the honing and the heel very little. At least that has been my experience. Today I have had to focus on getting the heel to contact more at the start of the stroke and keeping pressure concentrated near the heel edge of the hone. Does that make sense? Seems like a rolling stroke straight down the hone would be better. BUT.....Since Lynn said do the X...... I believe it and that settles it!!!!!

Thank again...... Keep it coming,

Barry